New chart starts today
Our deserted beach where we landed the dinghy
Passing Cape Finisterre, a milestone for us
A poor lonely shark lost his way floating by
Another lovely evening, low tide too
The beach is perfect for families, lots of shallow water
Our first close up of the rock formations
The birds favourite it would seem
Smiling Skipper as we pass the big green marker
Here's a close up
....and yet more rocks on the other side
Praia de Malide, Isla de Ons
Just arriving at Praia de Areabrava, Cangas
The peaceful bay tonight
Our first custard in 3 months
Still at Cies
Saturday 21st July… A quick update on yesterday (Friday)… There was no wind at first so we couldn’t start to sail even though we tried. We knew it would be a long day and we’d just filled up with fuel and didn’t really want to get using it already. The conditions were calm and after a couple of hours motorsailing we did turn the engine off but Dean said he didn’t feel Thesee was handling correctly, and we could barely manage 5 knots.
Sometimes the hydrovane self steering has a mind of its own and that was the case on and off. But most of the time it’s fantastic I have to say. The sun shone all day but we had a northerly breeze and it was a bit chilly. Linda wore a fleece, jacket, and woolly hat all the way. Dean got cold and miserable but we were determined to sail and not motor.
There were a few small niggles with this, that, and the other, not to mention fishing boats getting in the way. Nearing Camarinas one of our friend’s boats called us up on the VHF radio, however they could not hear our reply. It appears that our radio is not transmitting properly. That just about topped the day off, and gives Dean another job to sort out.
Today (Saturday) it was a miserable damp morning with thick cloud but the water was flat as a pancake and we had a good night’s sleep. All but two of the ten or so boats here at anchor departed. We went ashore for a look at the small town and had a coffee in the yacht club.
After lunch we dinghy’d across to a sandy bay opposite, where the water was perfectly clear and then we followed a 5km walking route through pine forests. Some of the views were stunningly beautiful, and the sun was out, and it was hot. We really enjoyed the walk and Saffy was happy to be able to roam freely. She was exhausted when we got back to the dinghy and fell asleep in the sand whilst we were getting the dinghy back into the water. Bless her. Then we all fell asleep when we got back on the boat. It’s a really lovely anchorage here and tonight is our 9th free night this month. Good job really because the fuel bill yesterday was 300 euros.
Water canons at the ready at Camarinas Marina
Lace making
Looking north from the boat
Looking north west.... loads of Wind Turbines in the area
Getting the walking boots on
Along the walking route
Wasn't expecting to find a donkey today
What's this? Maybe for drying meat or something?
A close up
Our bargain pastry selection, only 2 euros
....and we've already eaten one of the massive pain au chocolates
Saffy get's a once over for bugs and ticks
Sunday 22nd July… Today started with a big black cloud, followed by a lot of cussing and swearing, and ended in a heatwave in San Francisco Bay.
We left Camarinas at 8.30am with a destination of Ria de Muros in mind, about a 40 mile trip. The wind and sailing here on the Atlantic Coast is so frustrating. One minute we had no wind, then it’s up to 20 knots, then it’s down to nothing again. The swell isn’t too bad at the moment, certainly not the worst we’ve had, but it’s still about a metre. If there’s no constant wind then you can’t get the sails set up correctly to counteract the swell and so you end up rolling around with the sails bashing about. No wonder the only boats we see are either going north or south just to get somewhere, there’s certainly no local cruising for pleasure, except in the rias.
However, we did reach our furthest point west today when we passed the headlands at Cape Tourinan and Cape Finisterre. We were about 9 degrees 25 minutes west, and meant that we are well and truly around the corner of Spain and heading south! Finisterre is well known for foggy weather but today we could actually see for miles and miles. For the last 70 miles we have been sailing the Costa da Morte (Death Coast), but I didn’t like to think about that at the time of doing it.
So we reached Ria de Muros at about 3pm and anchored in the bay known as Ensenada de San Francisco. Wow it’s hot hot hot. There’s about 4 beaches and they’re full of holidaymakers it seems. The water is clear green. There’s a few boats anchored and a couple of hours after we arrived a Dutch boat came and anchored fairly close to us. Soon after the skipper swam across to us to ask if we were happy with his close proximity? Well how could we refuse after all his effort?
This evening Dean decided to have a swim himself, and donned his snorkelling gear to swim down and check the anchor was dug in ok. Then he did a bit of hull scrubbing in the water but it’s hard going. Anyway, I think he enjoyed his swim in the Atlantic a little more than the last time he got in which was at Lulworth Cove.
Arrival at San Francisco...but not as you know it
Great views all around
Dean showing off his skills
Have you finished yet?
More work to do. Just look at that water!
Monday 23rd July… We’ll start with a lovely photo taken last night whilst walking Saffy along the beach.
A beautiful evening and anchorage
We slept well and blue skies greeted us this morning. There was a mist looming out at sea and a bit on the nearest hilltop. The flies have been driving us mad even though we’ve blocked all entries to the boat they still manage to get in. Linda has resorted to killing by the woolly hat method. Just flick it with a lot of anger and it’s a sure hit.
So we went ashore again for only about 15 minutes to drop some rubbish (sneakily disguised in a shopping bag) in the local campsite waste bins and walk Saffy. By the time we were back at the dinghy the mist was so thick we could hardly see where the boat was, the wind and waves had picked up and Dean had a job pushing us off. The shore was a bit rocky so we had to be careful before we started the engine. With some perseverance we got going and made it back to the boat.
By midday the waves and swell were becoming uncomfortable and there was no way we could have landed ashore this evening, so we decided to leave and cross the ria to a marina at Portosin. It was tricky getting the dinghy and outboard engine onto the boat with the rock and roll going on. Only one minor bump on the hull. We raised the anchor and set off. By now the wind was reaching 20 knots. How did that happen? Well I did say yesterday it changes as it pleases. The forecast for today had been no wind strangely enough.
We reached the other side of the ria and as we were within a mile or so of the marina we spotted a hidden anchorage and it looked beautiful and calm. Of course we had to have a look. Yes, we’ll have some of that please. Down went the hook and we settled in, followed not too long after by another 4 boats. This beach is called Praia de Aguieir and the village is called Cans. San Francisco last night, Cans tonight!
Our new anchorage, a private island and cute bridge
It's a small shallow bay so we could get quite close in
A poor lonely shark lost his way floating by
Now there's a lost whale
there's some upset kids on the beach i'm sure
Linda in shorts, not a sight seen very often
Another snippet of excitement today. In the rias between here and Baiona there’s the Galician Atlantic Islands Nature Reserves….. islands that you need a permit to navigate through the waters and visit. We only found out about it about a week ago, and sent off the relevant application and email written in Spanish (with the help of Google Translate). Today we received an email giving permission, which we’ll need to print off and show if asked. We still have to apply to anchor on a daily basis when we get nearer because they only allow a certain number of visitors per day. However, Saffy dogs are not allowed to go ashore so we won’t be able to anchor overnight which is a shame, but we should get a couple of lunch stops in.
Tuesday 24th July… A sight of local fishermen was this morning’s view when we looked outside. They seemed to be scraping the seabed so we assumed they were after mussels or oysters maybe. There were 21 fishing boats in total all around us and the other two yachts that had stayed overnight. They were really in close quarters with one of the yachts whose name just happened to be ‘Relax’! I bet he wasn’t. By midday they had all finished and headed back to Muros.
The fishermen
We’ve had a couple of lovely walks today around the beach and sand dunes. There’s a boardwalk that goes right along the back of the dunes and along the ria. This place is just gorgeous, we can’t find a single thing to complain about. This afternoon when we went ashore the sand was glistening like gold dust, but it was so hot underfoot you couldn’t stand in one spot for more than a few seconds.
The nature reserve
The locality
The hot beach
The boardwalk
Dean’s been trying to sort out the faulty splitter which is the cause of the VHF radio issues. We’ve realised it’s still under warranty, so we think the company will be able to send us a replacement to perhaps Baiona.
For dinner we had burgers with Linda’s homemade bread rolls, freshly baked this afternoon. Tomorrow will be an early start because we want to get to Ribiera in the Ria de Arousa. They’ve got a Lidl and we need to do some shopping yet again.
The flamingo
The bread rolls
We’ve booked 3 dates to anchor at the weekend in the Galician Islands, weather dependent as always.
Wednesday 25th July… No fishermen today thankfully, so raising the anchor at 8.30am was easy peasy. It was a beautiful morning as we headed out of the ria and for once the swell was hardly noticeable, we actually got to do a few hours of reasonable and happy sailing. Today’s destination… Santa Eugenia de Ribeira. On the way we decided to take the inshore passage (Paso del Carreiro) between Isla de Salvora and the rocky mainland. The gap to pass through is only 250m wide, but well marked with a huge green starboard marker and a smaller red port side one. Isla de Salvora is the first of the Galician Atlantic Islands which meant our navigation permit came into good use. The rocks formations here are so unusual.
Safely through the gap we made a course northwards to the anchorage in the bay at Santa Eugenia de Ribeira. The only reason for coming here is to get a load of shopping from the two fairly large supermarkets near the beach. However, once we anchored and checked the opening hours we found out that today in Galicia is St James’ Day… yes a flipping Bank Holiday and the shops were shut! How annoying is that? Especially as we’re in an uncomfortable rolly anchorage, and got wet shorts going ashore….. all this just for shopping. Dean has found a way of combatting the swell and he’ll write some details
below.
OK. So today we checked the AIS and VHF patch cables. These are short cables that connect the AIS and VHF to the splitter so that they can both use the same antenna.
The cables are both the same and it turned out that one was faulty. I managed to re-solder the inner wire to the plug and hay presto we are back in business. I also had the headlining down near to the mast and checked the cable connections there. The trouble is now, we have to put up with the Spanish chit chat on the VHF all day long. (off switch I think)
Once we had anchored in the rolly anchorage I thought I would try and make the boat lie to the swell rather than the wind. The anchor was already set with the correct scope (we have 12mm chain on a Delta anchor) Take a line at least the length of the boat, tie it to the chain with a rolling hitch at the bow roller. Take the line outside to a winch and winch it in while letting more anchor chain out.
By letting out chain and winching in rope you will find an angle to the swell that suits.
I'm not going to mention the G word just in case but will keep you informed.
Splitter at the top with blue AIS on the left
4 patch cables can be seen on the splitter
Thursday 26th July… Bingo! We got to go ashore twice and be back before 11am, once for the doggie walk, then again for the shopping. Thankfully the weather was kind and we got ashore easily without getting wet. Getting back into the dinghy with the shopping Linda noticed some fins in the water about 50 metres off shore, shouting ‘What’s that!! No it wasn’t a shark, it was in fact some dolphins playing around and they actually made their way through the whole bay inside the swimming area. Wow.
Some of the shopping ready to be loaded in the dinghy
No dolphin photos, they're too quick for the camera
After a quick coffee we set off for Isla de Ons. We had an anchorage booked at this National Reserve Island. No sooner had we set off when Dean announced the batteries weren’t charging. Oh No! Seems the alternator isn’t working again. Good job we have the old spare one. Whilst Dean pondered his next move we sailed steadily and serenely towards our destination, on arrival dropping the anchor manually.
You can only anchor here at two spots and we chose the anchorage at Praia de Malide. It was indeed a lovely spot, but no more so really than some of the other anchorages we’ve visited. We soon realised that it was a nudist beach! Well a fair few of the sun worshippers were nude but most weren’t totally… er, not that we were using binoculars or anything, would we do such a thing??
We spent about 6 hours there, but unfortunately Dean had his head in the engine for 5 of them, taking the alternator apart and faultfinding. No luck at present, so he put the old alternator on. It doesn’t work quite right with the setup we have but it’s better than nothing at all.
Dean didn't expect to be having to do this today, how annoying!
This island where we were do not allow landing dogs ashore, so we intended to have dinner then nip across the bay to Portonovo marina for a few days. That plan changed when Dean contacted them but they told us they couldn’t fit us in. So how do we get to walk Saffy tonight then?
After a rethink, we lifted the anchor and headed about 8 miles south to another ria called Ria de Alden and found a smashing little bay on the west hand side. We arrived at 8.30pm, and here we saw more dolphins close inshore. That’s two dolphin sightings today and not one of them was in the Marine Reserve!
Chiringuito this way!
We took Saffy ashore and thought we quite like the place. We found some Chiringuitos (sort of makeshift beach bars) along the back of the beach but decided we’d had enough excitement for today so we didn’t stop. But there’s always tomorrow……
Friday 27th July… Woke up late at 9am, getting used to this sleeping at anchor now. Well Linda is, Dean was up in the night thinking about his alternator troubles, and keeping his eye on fishermen lifting lobster pots nearby.
For a weekday treat and because we didn’t have to be anywhere fast, Linda announced scrambled eggs on toast for breakfast. Getting the bread out of the freezer she noticed it was defrosting, and so was the fridge. Yikes!! And we only filled it full of food yesterday. Dean tracked the problem to the low voltage in the batteries which had caused the fridge and freezer to cut out overnight. In a jiffy he got the generator going for an hour to rectify the situation. Phew.
Then we had the issue of taking Saffy ashore as the swell was up and creating waves on the beach for landing. We found a smaller beach nearby which was more protected and landed there, all was fine and we kept fairly dry.
We had an anchorage booking at the Isles de Cies (about 10 miles away) and started to make our way about 1.30pm. Swell was up again… 1.8 metres today so the forecast said. It was pretty horrid but Thesee handled well. Nearing the Isles we were getting a bit fed up of it and just deciding our options when a large transporter ship appeared coming out of Vigo and we had to quickly make the choice… Isles de Cies or head for shelter? We decided on shelter and found a bay called Ensenada de Limens in the Ria de Vigo. Trouble was it wasn’t that sheltered but it was OK. A French boat was already there and I think he was a bit annoyed that we anchored close to him and he moved immediately.
The transporter ship
Strangely, the sea looks fine here in this photo
Now here comes 'Navigator of the Seas'
After about an hour of discussions with each other we thought it would be better to go across the bay to the Club Nautico de Vigo marina, and that’s what we did. Although we nearly overshot it because we had been aiming for a different marina by mistake and only realised when we were right beside it. Anyhow we’re here now and booked for two nights. The three sailors are happy and the staff are all very friendly and helpful. They even have a swimming pool we can use. Bit late now to hit the town on a Friday night, Saffy’s already in bed.
Saturday 28th July... So a nice morning in Vigo but there was work to be done. Job of the day was to dismantle the faulty alternator into a thousand pieces. Well that's how it looked from Linda's point of view. Dean had it completely to bits, checking and cleaning everything in sight. He did find that one of the springs didn't seem to be 'springing' easily, getting stuck on a small nodule of plastic but apart from that all seemed fine. The disassembly and assembly took a fair few hours and having got up late anyway it was now late afternoon. Tomorrow he will re-fit it to see if it works, fingers and paws crossed.
This lot used to be an alternator
Deciding to take a walkabout and being right in the city, we made our way up to O Castro, the imposing hill which overlooks Vigo and offers spectacular views of the city and bay. We found our way through the centre of town passing many very wierd and unusual statues and monuments, steadily ascending as we went. We reached the hillside proper and walked up the very many steps through the botanical gardens to the remains of Fortaleza de San Sebastian at the very top. It was worth all the effort not only for the promised spectacular views, but the gardens were very pretty with a lovely fountain, pond, small monuments, and three examples of homes illustrating life at the start of the Roman Occupation.
This statue is called 'Merman'
Bet this one is called Dino
Heading up towards the hilltop at O Castro
The anchors commemorate the naval Battle of Rande in 1702 at which galleons
full of gold and silver from America were attacked and sunk in the estuary
The lovely gardens at the top
Girls pondside
I should forget my camera more often, then i get on all the photos
Here i am overlooking the Ria de Vigo with Isles de Cies on the horizon
It was a far easier walk on the way down and in no time we were back at the marina. Quick showers ensued and after getting all dolled up our plan was to eat at the attached Yacht Club Restaurant who were offering a highly recommended set menu plus wine and coffee for 15 euros. Unfortunately when we arrived they said they were closing in 15 minutes! So we were now all dressed up and nowhere to go.
Just off for a night out in Vigo
What to do now? There were a lot of bars and restaurants around but we didn't fancy any of them and after about 20 minutes and a few streets back from the seafront we came across 'Meson Compostela' and they had tablecloths too, yes tablecloths! Right that's it we'll have a look at the menu, and it was in Spanish AND English. Bonus! We chose a table outside, the waiters were brilliant, so attentative and helpful, and even amusingly patient with our attempts at ordering in Spanish. Linda had Entrecote and it was massive, Dean had Monkfish. What a great place and a great night....eventually.
Mmm pudding
Mmm more pudding
Sunday 29th July... Mr C is a genius! He was granted genius status this morning after re-fitting the alternator. Excitement mounted as he switched the engine on and the ignition light went out, things looking good. In fact, it seems to be doing everything it should now. What would we do without a genius on board? Everyone should have one i reckon.
No sunshine today, and not many people about. Dean washed the boat down and put the dinghy away. It's unlikely we'll need it for a little while now. We're planning our next move and having a look at some of the first ports of call once we get into Portugal. It'll be a shame to leave the Rias Baixas behind because it's a lovely area, but we do want to be in Portimao by September to meet up with fab friends.
This is the Club Nautico restaurant where we tried to eat last night
One of the many ferries that come in from the Islands
Monday 30th July.... Aaaaahhhhh Bisto! We found proper gravy! And it was purely co-incidental whilst we were browsing the local shopping mall looking for printer cartridges and a new pair of Crocs. It was in a tiny food shop selling sweets and oddments, and Linda nearly fainted when Dean spotted Green's Cheesecake Mix too. That's difficult enough to find at home, what's the chances of finding it in Spain?
Thank goodness we have gravy and cheesecake mix
A step back in time
No luck with finding Crocs though so we walked along the main high street and found a C&A of all things. Back onboard we turned it into a Thesee Salon Day, both having our hair done once again. It's been a miserable wet rainy day today, so not a lot to do. Although we did have homemade sponge and unhomemade custard for pudding.
Trying out the new tin with a quick sponge cake
Tomorrow looks like a good day to move on, and that's the plan as it stands at the moment.
Tuesday 31st July… It was goodbye Vigo this morning and hello Islas de Cies. Yes the weather has picked up since rainy yesterday and it was less than two hours down the ria and across to the anchorages we’ve been waiting for.
On our arrival at our chosen place we dropped anchor, but it was only a few minutes before we decided we weren’t happy. First Dean noticed we were right on top of a row of lobster pots on a long line of submerged rope, then a rowdy group of people nearby on the beach, and the swell from the tourist ferries and sea in general was not really the kind of thing we were expecting. It was rather disappointing as this was the place we’ve been waiting for, you know, the icing on the cake. We had a quick coffee then made the decision to move to another anchorage at the neighbouring island of San Martino, just 10 minutes away which was much better indeed and we stayed there for about three hours.
The first anchorage at Cies
Now anchored off San Martino
San Martino beach
Our track on Vessel Finder
Someone really couldn't care less where she is
To be honest, we’ve been in far better places in Spain, France, and the UK. Still, I suppose it’s hyped up as a tourist attraction and indeed they do get a lot of tourists there. Anyway, we’ve been there done that now.
So about 3pm we left and made a course for Baiona, it wasn’t far and we were there in no time taking a shorter route through a narrow passage called Canal de la Porta. Tonight we’re in the Monte Real Club de Yates marina. Once again it looks a nice place with the marina sitting right beside the Fortaleza de Monterreal (obviously). Tomorrow we’ll take a closer look.
In Baiona, the replica of Carabela Pinta
Baiona was the first port in Europe to hear news of the discovery of America
Wednesday 1st August… A little town walkabout to the supermarket and then a café on the promenade, where we had lovely coffee and cake. Fresh and still warm baguette for lunch, then another walkabout around the Fortaleza de Monterreal on the headland which was fabulous with amazing views. In fact we walked it twice, once up high around the ramparts and once on the easy lowland path.
It’s been really hot today and it’s staying that way for a number of days so the weatherman says. Today will be our last day in Espana for now at least, because tomorrow we will be sailing from Baiona and crossing the border into Portugal. Another flag raising ceremony me thinks.
So this will be the last blog post entitled ‘Camarinas to the Rias Baixas’.
The next blog post will be called ‘Into Portugal’.
Here’s a load of photos from this afternoon.
This is a fabulous 4 star hotel inside the Fortaleza
Thankyou to all Thésée Followers around the World
for reading the blog, sending emails, and joining in with the fun.
See you tomorrow in Portugal to continue the 'BIG Adventures of Thésée'
xxx
