Southwards to Tuscany and Elba
Tuesday 10th September... Dean went to the office this morning to pay for our overnight stay at Marina Chiavari. We thought it would be 60 euros but they charged 77 euros, ouch! On querying the price we found out there are two separate marinas here and we were in a different marina to what we thought. Oh well, don't know how that happened really, but we were all in the same boat with Impavidus and Etérnité, you might say. We wouldn't mind all that much if it was a great marina with good showers and wifi that worked, but it didn't have anything going for it at all. So all three boats paid up and decided to leave for La Spezia, but not before a walk about the town and a quick shop at Carrefour Express (which happened to be quite reasonably priced for once).
The imposing Basilica di Nostra Signora dell'Orto at Chiavari
A famous Italian Hero we presume
Market day in Chiavari, but we can't find any bread to buy
Some fancy buildings to look at
La Spezia was about 30 miles away, so roughly 6 hours travelling. The seas were calming down but still a little agitated from yesterday. Along the coast here is the 'Cinque Terre National Park'. You can read all about it here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Terre
I have to say, i've never heard of it before.
Dramatic coastline along this World Heritage Site
...with villages perched on the hillsides
So on the way we were deciding what route to take into La Spezia, because there seemed to be a short cut in between the mainland and Islota Palmeras, instead of sailing the extra hour around the latter. Trouble was there was a bar with minimum depths of 2.5 metres. After quite a lot of research and deliberation we decided if it was calm when we got there we would go for it. The entrance is not very wide at all, only about 50 metres but it's very deep at that point. Here's a picture of some castles and turrets built into the rock at the entrance. Just behind it is the beautifully picturesque Portovenere, the entrance just visible to the right of the rock in this photo below...
We made the passage with the other two boats following us. Thesee was the guinea-pig. All turned out fine and the lowest depth we registered was 3.2 metres....easy peasy. We were thrilled we made the right choice and the others seemed to be too as they both decided to anchor for the night in the beautiful bay. For us it was a night in Marina Benedetti, where we were picking up a package from the UK (more charts, thanks Claire for sending).
Nemo submarine at Portovenere
Looking back at Impavidus and Etérnité entering the passage
... and a fort as we come out the other end
In the harbour now, this yacht has its own speedboat garage
Hard day for little Saffy dogs
She doesn't care if there's a cushion on her head
Wednesday 11th September... So pleased to have reached La Spezia. Dean came here on holiday a long long time ago on his motorbike, but says he doesn't recognise the place. But he did remember that it was beautiful. La Spezia is the second largest city in Liguria, after Genoa. It's one of the main Italian military and commercial harbours, and a major Italian Naval Base. It was a super morning and we took a walk about with lots of photos.
Lovely views to wake up to
Alongside the pontoon
No stern-to mooring for us here
Lovely building for the Banca Populare
The Cathedral.... not quite what we expected
Ascending the castle walkways
Castello di San Giorgio
Another beauty, but we not sure what its called
as we were a bit lost by now
Into the park near the waterfront
here's Italian General and Nationalist Giuseppe Garibaldi
This morning's cruise ship arrival and it's
Royal Caribbean's Oasis of the Seas
Stopping for coffee we find chilli growing in a barrel
Mooching around Marina Mirabella nextdoor to us
Shame to leave here, but we've got a free anchorage waiting nearby
Views of the Apuan Alps in the distance
Nearing Portovenere anchorage
Here we are now, lots of mussel beds around
Evening closing in
We're back with Impavidus and Etérnité in the anchorage and they came over for drinks this evening to discuss our plans for moving on to Pisa.....exciting.
Thursday 12th September... Tonight we're in PISA, PISA, PISA after an afternoon's sailing from La Spezia. The sea was soooooooooo beautiful today, the colour just a fabulous bluey green. We're actually moored on the River Arno on a rickety wooden pontoon with deer grazing on the opposite bank and a camel in the field! Not the kind of sights we see every day on Thesee. We had a variety of sail combinations today including both the main and the cruising chute, not only that, we were goose-winging them too.
To get into the River Arno there's a sand bar at the entrance with about 2-3 metres of water. When we reached the spot, we actually registered only 1.6 metres of water.... Yikes. Just made it. The river is unique with lots and lots of strange fishing methods going on. Nets they just raise and lower into the water. We've yet to see one in action.
Navy ships passing this morning
We missed the submarine apparantly
Impavidus raising the anchor
Arrivederci Portovenere
Wonderful views of the mountain range
Here's Etérnité
The goose-winged Cruising Chute and Mainsail
Coming into the River Arno with its unusual fishing techniques
.... all in a line
The grazing deer
Vessel Finder showing our location on the river
View this evening
Our pontoon
Friday 13th September... What a day today! The six of us plus three dogs took the short bus ride into Pisa where we were offloaded at the bus station then walked about 15 minutes to the Piazza del Duomo to see the world famous 'Leaning Tower of Pisa'. It really was an incredible sight to witness with one's own eyes. Along with the Tower is also the Cathedral and the Baptistry. You can walk around the three sights freely but have to pay to go inside any, and no dogs allowed inside but we knew that anyway. So we spent about two hours or so just strolling about, taking lots of photos and amused ourselves by watching everyone taking the obligatory photos holding up the Tower (including us).
Crossing the River Arno as we head towards the Leaning Tower
First glimpse
Dean's looking abit wobbly too, even Saffy dog's playing the game
Different angles surprise us, as from behind it seems to lean even more
The Cathedral
How many doggies from the UK have a photo like this?
Now it's Linda's turn to have a play
.... more fun
This is the Baptistry
Back at the Cathedral, and even that's got a tilt
Masquerading faces on the local stalls
Back in the Piazza, it looks deserted here but it wasn't
Just one more photo before we leave
Then it was time to head off for lunch, and we found a lovely place to tuck into Lasagne, Pizza, and Salad before heading back to the Bus Station.
Yum Yum
We're really pleased we made the effort to come to Pisa, it's been really worth it and if you've never been here.... you should!
Saturday 14th September... Yesterday Pisa, today Elba! Moving on this morning we had a bit of trouble leaving our tight berth on the River Arno, because the fenders got a bit entangled with the neighbours. With a little help from our friends we were set free, and soon on our way to cross the sand bar again at the river entrance. This time we reckon we had an extra 10cm of water..... whoopie.
Not long down the coast we passed Livorno and noticed the 'one and only Brittannia' cruise ship in port. Boy does that ship get around. Next thing we know another ship starts coming out of port, just as we were approaching the shipping lane. It would have been fine, only the wind dropped and left us becalmed right in the firing line. Dean had to call the ship and ask his intentions. Meanwhile we put the motor on, rolled the genoa away and passed safely behind the ship.
Leaving the unusual River Arno this morning
There's Britannia, would recognise it anywhere
Now the ship we had to avoid
It's going to Sardinia
So we were on our way to Elba about 55 miles down the coast. The sail wasn't too bad overall, but now tonight we are sitting in a rolly anchorage in the bay at Portoferraio. Going to be a long night me thinks...
The entrance to the bay in Portoferraio, Elba
Just got there in time for a very quick Saffy walk, and a sunset
Sunday 15th September... Went to bed last night and the rock and rolling obviously calmed down as next thing i knew it was 6am! Not much to report today. We did dinghy across the bay, about mile and half, to go shopping at the Co-op (would you believe). Guess it's not the real Co-op! But it was a very good supermarket, the best we've seen for a while, so we had a dinghy full of shopping to get back to the boat. It was an easy afternoon doing not a lot, then Dean did a BBQ later with a chicken we bought. It's been very pleasant in the anchorage today and the weather looks fine for about another three days so tomorrow we'll try the bay around the corner. Been doing some research on Napoleon and his exile here in Elba. Was surprised to find out he wasn't even here for a year before he fled back to France.
Early rise and shine
The ferries are brightly decorated with cartoon characters
This is our view onshore
This ferry has a Batman theme
Monday 16th September... We re-anchored across the bay so that we could have a walk into Portoferraio (the largest town here in Elba). This anchorage is near the ferry terminal, but the views were still good and the ferries weren't bothersome, although our friends said last night the fumes were stifling. So we had a good look around the town for a couple of hours. It's busy with traffic as you would imagine with so many visitors, and the road is right next to the marina quay. We're glad we're not berthed in this marina.
Portoferraio from the anchorage
Napoleon was 'ere'
Waiting for coffee and croissants
This boat has an upside down cycle frame as an outboard engine lift
Dean's Americano..... you don't get much but add your own hot water to suit
Fruity croissant
Statues in the back streets
Another colourfully decorated ferry
After our sightseeing and a bit of shopping we went back to the boat. Along with Impavidus and Etérnité we decided to move round the headland to the next large bay and we all anchored in Golfi di Viticcio where the water was beautifully clear with a lovely sandy bottom to sink the anchor into. Hence in no time Dean was in the water scrubbing the hull (again).
Leaving the harbour
New arrival today
This is Flying Fox, brand new this year
It was Ant's birthday today so tonight we all got together this evening on Impavidus to celebrate his big day with two bottles of Champagne, and a lot of laughs as always.
Tuesday 17th September...We were up early again as is the norm nowadays. Difficult to see the sun rise from our anchorage as were below some high hills. Yesterday we found out that one of the new solar panels has stopped working so keeping the batteries topped up with the shorter days is going to be an issue. Not to worry though, the Spanish company I bought the panels off give a 12 month warranty. Obviously void if you are British and sunk their armada! Anyway off for morning walkies.
Here we are!
And again from satellite
Found these on the wall next to the nature center
Nice photo of the anchor, it's a bloke thing
Half and half shot with the camera I found
Another busy day for some
Super woman again
Most of the day till lunchtime was chill out time, after lunch I did some more bottom scrubbing. phew! I had a bit of a swim about and then went for a paddle board about the anchorage. Linda went in for a dip and had a go on the board also. Saffy was busy as usual. I think we will stay here again tomorrow and then move on Thursday as there is a change in the weather due.
Wednesday 18th September... Lazyish day today doing this and that. Dean set up his diving gear and had a swim and scrub under the boat. He said his scuba tank worked brilliantly, but it only lasted for about 20 minutes, then he took it to the local dive shop to get it filled up again....cost 10 euros which he wasn't happy about.
Morning walkie views
Lovely quaint houses
More wall decorations
Getting a bit out of hand here...
Reminds me of beer mats in Alan and Yasi's pub!
The letterbox
Rock formations up the steps
Ready for the dive
There he goes
So after lunch we moved to the next bay which is called Golfo della Biodola. It's a beautiful setting with lovely hotels and houses. Again we're anchored in sand, a little deeper this time at 7 metres. Tonight we went ashore and found some caves in the hillside, luckily we just about managed to avoid getting locked in at 7pm.
Going in
Going out
It was still light outside with very calm sea
Our dinghy on the beach outside a lovely hotel
Now further along the beach looking out at Thesee
No, it's not Thesee's anchor light!
Now Thésée and Etérnité together
Elba seems to be very dog friendly
Thursday 19th September... We've moved into Esaom Cesa marina today because the weather's turning and the dreaded swell is on the rise this evening. Oh well, five days at anchor on the trot! Not a lot but better than we've been doing all summer. This afternoon we took a walk looking for a place to buy a new microwave, as our freebie one from Almerimar has gone kaput. No luck really and quite a depressing trek down the main road with crazy drivers not stopping at zebra crossings. We did get six new wine glasses though, so you never know what you'll find. The marina is ok but they don't have any rubbish bins, wierd. It's a bit of a quirky place and there is a nice looking cafe/restaurant and also a book swap which made Dean happy. Here's some shippy photos taken today as we came into the bay.
Italian Military Ops
This is Amerigo Vespucci
Friday 20th September... Dean and I walked into town today leaving Saffy Cane to have a siesta. It's a good 20 minutes walk in the hot sun to the fishing tackle shop, where Dean wanted to exchange his new super duper sinking paravane because it didn't sink. The shop was still closed at 3pm and wasn't re-opening until 4pm when the three hour lunch break ended! So what to do for an hour?? Let's go to Napoleon's House! No dog with us so a perfect opportunity. It was only a short walk away and only only a fiver entrance fee. Here's the photos...
Oops not this one....
This was actually inside the nearby Church
We need to climb these steps to find Napoleon's house
Yes that's the right road
....and here it is
We're in the right place now
Dinner is served
Here's the man himself.... He looks very tiny in this photo
Had to get a photo with his bust
Not tonight Josephine
This is his other bed....the one he takes on tour
...you know, when he's killing people
A walk around the gardens
Nice views out to sea, when he dream't of escaping back to France
To be honest the place was very sparcely decorated with furniture, quite shabby too, but the walls and ceilings were all covered in a variety of painted designs. Some of the furniture was brought here from his summer house in the hills. It all felt a bit sorry really, as though the place had been raided and then they've tried to bring it back to life. Guess that's why it was only 5 euros to get in. Still, it was worth coming to say we did it.
Saturday 21st September... Still sat here in the marina waiting for the weather, don't believe anybody that tells you the weather in the Med is good. It's useless and un- predictable. Anyway did a couple of jobs about the boat today and then went out to try and find a new microwave, we would have called in at the Chandlers but of course it's continental Europe and every where is closed again aaarrrgggg.. lazy bloody buggers!
New microwave
New candles
We eventually found a microwave which I fitted this afternoon so we had jacket spuds for tea, nice. On our travels we picked up some more mozzy plug in thingies and some anti mozzy candles as we're both being eaten alive each night. Lets see what tomorrow brings, I think we'll be stuck here for another day until the weather passes by.
Sunday 22nd September... Not a lot to say about today. It rained with thunder and lightening on and off all day. We didn't even leave the boat only for walkies.
Monday 23rd September... Don't want to stay here in this place another day. It's nice but we've had enough now. So took the plunge to sail 15 miles round the coast to Porto Azzurro. We had to negotiate the ferry route, and many thanks go to the fast ferry for creating a two metre wave as it passed us! Round the headland and down the east coast the swell was up and it was spitting with rain. We knew this was forecast so not a surprise, and we only had about 8 miles to go at that point.
So as always glad to arrive at the destination and it was quite calm as we entered the bay. A number of boats were anchored and so we joined them, but moved to the north side of the bay after about an hour as a neighbouring boat was getting too near for comfort. It was much better here in our new spot, and comfortable even though there were windy gusts. We managed to dinghy ashore and had a quick look around. Quite a nice little place. Hope to have a better look tomorrow.
Dean has tried out his new bridle on the anchor chain this afternoon. This is why he fitted the extra fairleads recently, so as not to damage the decals on the hull with the rope rubbing further back at the cleat.
Fairleads doing their new job
Line then lead back to the cleat
Now looking overboard at the bridle
Saffy found a Dog Bar in town
Dean found Elba beer!
This will be the last blog post entitled 'Southwards to Tuscany and Elba'
The next post will be entitled 'Still in Elba!'
