Wednesday 31st May...
Linda - Wow, the last blog post only covered one week, but I've had to start a new one because the title didn't make sense any more 😂.
Only a two day stop in Gocek Limani on this occasion, because the weather forecast pushes us on towards Marmaris. On the way to Marmaris there's an anchorage that I wanted to go to, but you really need a two day period with calm swell as the anchorage there is very open. Well, we have a two day window (today and tomorrow) and if we didn't take it then we would have been stuck in Gocek for at least another week due to westerly winds. Not that we don't like Gocek anchorages, they are all beautiful, but it does get a bit repetetive.
So a calm morning it was and we departed Ravine Cove at 9.30am for a 30 mile trip to Ekincik (the anchorage I wanted to go to).
Bye bye to Eternite and White Cat, and Ravine Cove
Whilst it was calm we motored for about and hour and a half around the very bottom tip of Gocek peninsular until we picked up some useable wind. It was only 7-8 knots but on a close reach we were sailing at 5 knots and the sea was flat. It was a very comfortable sail past Dalaman and on to the following headlands where we turned to starboard in order to head north to Ekincik. Now we had wind directly behind us, so Dean goose-winged the sails (mainsail one side, genoa the other). It's a tricky point of sail and you have to have your wits about you in order to keep the wind EXACTLY behind you.
Goose-winging the sails
Progress was a little slower on this point of sail and our speed dropped to around 3.5 to 4 knots, but we were going in the right direction (almost) and in no hurry either, so what's not to like?
After a while the sea got a little bit choppy and we were debating how comfortable the proposed anchorage might be. We spotted some boats anchored over to the west side of the bay and having checked out some information online we decided to head over instead of going into Ekincik proper.
And so, this is where we are tonight, it's quite protected, very quiet, and beautiful. We are happy, and we have a couple of other boats to keep us company. It's always nice not to be totally alone, and I bet its going to be a dark night out here.
View from our anchorage tonight
Might as well finish off that bottle of Rosé then
Thursday 1st June...
Linda - What a lovely morning to wake up to in our secluded surprise anchorage.
Well, not having quite reached Ekincik last night, we made an early start at 8am and motored up into the bay to get a look at what we had missed. The landscape was stunning and it really was a pretty place.
Ekincik quay approaching on the left
The village from the tranquil bay
There's the quay
Looks lovely on the shore
A very big hump of trees there
So after our little tour we headed out of the bay and made a route for Marmaris. It just so happens that there's a restricted area of sea in the way. It's a military area, and Navionics states that 'Permission of Military authority is required for the vessels carrying foreign flag to enter the restricted area'. So OK to enter if your boat has a Turkish flag. I really don't have any idea how you could possibly contact the military and ask for permission to enter, let alone try and describe to the Turkish military what it is that you want to enter. Anyway, as you know we follow the rules and made a course to go around the outside of the area.
As we approached the south east corner of the restricted zone, four large war ships came out at speed along with what looked like a tug towing a big target. They all passed behind us but it was a bit nerve-wracking at first, and it became obvious that there was going to be some military firing practise going on today.
The red box denotes the restricted area
The first warship
Tug towing a target
After a while we passed the restricted zone, and all of a sudden Dean shouts 'WHALE'. I turned around to look and sure enough there was a whale sleekly gliding past Thesee. Yikes and Double Yikes. I just about had time to get the camera, but missed the best shots. As it passed we could see it had a large flattish kind of head and then a hump which looked like a fin. As it went into the distance it gave off a water spout. It passed us so elegantly, it was almost as if it was following the line of the restricted area like us. We've done some research on what we saw, and we've concluded that we think it was a Sperm Whale.
Sorry. Best whale photo that I snapped
https://www.facebook.com/groups/111343746448971/permalink/1124355728481096/?mibextid=Nif5oz
AND THEN, just after we had got over the whale excitement I turned to look back and there was a SUBMARINE. What an exciting journey it was becoming. But no sailing today, as no wind, well not until we got into Marmaris bay and was attempting to anchor. It's very deep here, 20 metres, so we have 85 metres of chain out tonight.
Submarine 😵
No-one had to remind us we were approaching Marmaris because there were so many pirate ships and day boats queuing up to get a glimpse inside a cave. I had to cover my nose and mouth, there were so many fumes in the air.
Day boat reversing to the cave
Extremely noisy pirate ship
In our anchorage tonight are some friends we haven't seen in a while, Steve and Tracey on Dusk. We first met them in Licata, Sicily, and then in Finike last year. They came over to us for a chat and a coffee this afternoon. It's been windy here all afternoon, only just calming down now and it's 8.30pm
Tonight's anchorage outside of Marmaris Yacht Marina
There's the marina
Friday 2nd June...
Linda - We're both feeling a little under the weather with a touch of sore throat, and groggy voices. We realised that we hadn't been off the boat since last Monday and were in need of stretching our legs and our brains. Today's weather was dismal but we rallied round and made the effort to get the dinghy off and go ashore to have a look around the marina and shops.
It's a big hub for boat repairs here, and the Chandlery was extremely well stocked with goodies. This perked Dean up somewhat. The marina was nice too. There's an amazing bar with snooker tables, a library, medical centre, hairdressers, and also a swimming pool. And of course a mini-market (no prices on ANYTHING though). We limited ourselves to emergency supplies.... a crusty loaf and 10 chucky eggs.
Pretty flowered walkways in the marina
Very colourful Hydrangea blooms
An old anchor to give ambience
Inside the bar
In the chandlery they had packs of 2 rubber buttons for the electric winches (this is what we were looking for the other day but could only get one). We bought the pack and Dean fitted them when we got back. So the lonesome one which we bought the other day is now a spare.
How good does that look?
We also bought a few other bits and bobs, silicon spray, WD40, foam paint brushes, electrical connectors, and two stainless steel rings. Dean says the new mainsail should sit in a better position if he connects these to the sail on the boom. See the next photo....
Feeling groggy doesn't stop Dean from doing what he loves..... making things work better. The anchor snubber has been chafing slightly, but today he re-adjusted the lines so that the anti-chafe (black material) sits through the fairleads. It's a bit more involved than it seems though, for one thing, he had spliced loops in the rope at the end which goes over the cleats, but now he has to cleat it off as well. I can't really explain it more than that because I'm fed up now, and my throat hurts..
At the fairlead
At the cleat
It's been a bouncy day in the anchorage, and we're still bouncing. When will this unsettled weather pass?
Saturday 3rd June...
Linda - Bouncing for most of the night too, with wind, thunder, and lightning. Even so, managed to get some sleep. And this morning when we woke it was calm. There was no point hanging around any longer, so we moved just a couple of miles to the main anchorage in the north of the bay, where the main town of Marmaris is situated. The anchorage was very busy, moreso than expected. But it's a large area so there's always a place to drop the hook. A little shallower here too at approx 15 metres deep, and we have 65 metres of chain out. The sea has been quite choppy all afternoon. Here's a couple of photos of some of our neighbours tonight.
We haven't been off the boat today, but we are both feeling much better. Oh, and I made some apricot cookies too.
Linda - We've moved into the Setur marina here in Marmaris because we are still covered by our annual contract with the Setur group, and that means we can stay in this particular marina for 7 days for free. We've only actually booked 4 days, but we may extend to 7. See how it goes.
We wouldn't normally come into the marina because the anchorage here is very good, but we thought we should take advantage of our free berth.
Outside the marina reception
The marina is average size but they definitely pack the boats in here.....into every nook and cranny it seems. Dean did a magnificent job reversing into our designated berth. The marina is very protected and we also have an excellent spot, but unfortunately the closest toilets/showers are closed for renovation and the next nearest ones are at least a 5 minute walk away. Apparently, it costs a fortune for a berth here, for us it would cost approximately £210 per night !!!!! There is no way in a zillion years we would pay that ANYWHERE.
We've got a list of things to be done whilst we're here. First on the list was taking our rubbish to the bins, second was victualling, and luckily the supermarkets are open on a Sunday. This is our third visit to Marmaris. It's well known for the large number of chandlery and marine shops, but today was the first time we found them (closed though). Obviously looking in the wrong places before.
Bridge over the river at the marina
The river
In town, some statues
Very nice alley.... Dean with his shopping trolley
It was hot today walking to the supermarket. We didn't hang around in town, just headed straight back because we were exhausted and thirsty.
Tomorrow's adventures.... Laundry, Chandleries, Campingaz, International Food Shop (bacon here we come), and maybe the Castle (if we can find it this time). Again, the castle has evaded us on previous visits. It's very visible behind the quayside restaurants, but we haven't found our way in yet.
Monday 5th June...
Linda - All but one of our jobs sorted today. We couldn't find anywhere to fill our campingaz bottle, but that might be sorted tomorrow. All we could find today was a shop that wanted to sell us a Turkish version for 25 euros.... no thanks. We even had a taxi running us around to different gas shops.
We had much better luck at the International Import Shop. They even had cider!
Cider 😊
Massive cans of baked beans on a pallet
Some of our purchases....bacon, sausage, beans, branston, curry sauce, cider
The taxi brought us back to the marina, we offloaded the shopping, and went back to browse the chandleries in great detail.
Walking along the river
A lovely 'Ultra Anchor' display here 😏
We carried on into the Grand Bazaar where you can buy as many tourist souvenirs as you can carry. We didn't buy anything. Then we sat on a bench at the waterfront and ate our packed lunch. Then it was time to find the Castle. And this time we struck lucky, and even luckier because we could get in for free with our musuem cards.
So into the castle (and museum) we went. I must say it was one of the best kept and very nicely laid out castle museums that we have visited in Turkey. I was well impressed. Obviously lots of photos to follow....
Looks like this is the castle entrance
Coins from over the centuries (and different Empires)
Tiny oil lamps
We finished off with a climb a little higher to the Panorama cafe to quench our thirst.
Linda - Last night Dean treated us to an evening meal at our favourite Marmaris restaurant. It's called Mr Cook and as we approached, the proprietor instantly recognised our faces. I know it was a genuine reaction from him because of the expression on his face, and I could almost tell the thoughts going through his brain. You see, we came here two nights running last November when we were on our Road Trip with Alan & Yasmine. They serve the most amazing Fillet Steak, and the most amazing Lasagne (which became quite a joke with the proprietor last time). We just had to go back and visit again. And we weren't disappointed, AND the prices hadn't gone up either! (no 80% inflation rip off in this restaurant). The evening was lovely. The wine glasses were massive. Two fillet steak meals, two massive glasses of red wine, and a salad for total cost £48. Maybe we will come again before we leave Marmaris??
This morning Dean woke me up to say we had a new neighbour. I popped my head outside to have a look, and there was a cruise ship in Port. How did we not hear that arrive? The ship was called 'Crown Iris', I think it does trips from Tel Aviv to Rhodes, Marmaris, and back.
The cruise ship view from our cockpit
We got out and about early again before it was the heat of the day. With the help of Facebook we found a shop that would refill our Campingaz bottle, so we dropped that in and continued into town to look for a Fish & Chip shop that has been recommended to us. Some friends of ours, Phil & Cristina on Bora La will be arriving in a few days and it looks like we will be going out for Fish & Chips.
More statues in town by the main fountain
Wool shops in abundance here in Turkey
We located the Fish & Chip shop
We stopped off for coffee whilst waiting for the Campingaz refill
Another view of the cruise ship
We picked up the full gas bottle and also the laundry on the way back. Dean bought some blue paint and sprayed two of our gas bottles. They look much better now, and no rust!
After lunch, Dean washed the decks and filled the water tanks. Water here in the marina is Free!
The cruise ship left at 6pm, and 30 minutes later a huge cargo ship came in its place, carrying a number of large motor boats. It was quite something to see, and later it offloaded one of the boats but we missed it. The cargo ship is called 'Chipolbrok Sun' registered in Hong Kong.
Behind the sail boats, the cargo ship carrying motor yachts
Linda - We're running out of things to do here. So, a bit more shopping for heavy stuff, things like Milk, 2 ltr bottles of Fanta, and of course a pack of 24 Efes beer. Dean likes to drink the bottled beer, but they only had cans in a pack, so cans it was. We might as well stock up while it's easy and convenient.
Dean had one more idea on his mind. He has a small pump which he uses to back flush the engine once in a while. His idea was to convert the socket, and attach a long hose so that he can use it as a wash to clean the anchor when it comes up mucky and muddy. Normally he has to get a bucket of sea water and a brush to clean it off. This new invention can now be plugged in via the anchor locker, the pump sits over the side and into the sea water, then once switched on 'Bingo' he has a constant flow of water.
At first glance you may think he's having a pee! Obviously not, lol.
It's working, Yay
This is the pump part that sits in the water
Linda - This morning I woke up to find Dean in his favourite place, with his head in a cupboard. Phil has brought him a 'gadget' from America which will make the fridge function more economically. We already have one of these 'gadgets' fitted to the freezer. Oddly, you can only buy these 'gadgets' from America, so lucky for us Phil brings them over for us.
We had a fairly quiet and easy afternoon before going out with Phil & Cristina for Fish & Chips. This place was recommended to us, so we thought we had better try it out.
We didn't come for breakfast even though they do Full English
The fish & chips were quite impressive and tasty, a thumbs up
Waiting for our dinner
Linda - Last but one day in Marmaris marina. After fitting the fridge "gadget" yesterday Dean decided to upgrade the fridge and freezer wiring so had to buy and fit some (6mm 2) wires because we are getting a voltage loss on startup from the original wires as they are are a long run from the switch. This was an upgrade to the wiring that we have been wanting to do for some time. I know, this fridge and freezer issue seems to be never ending. He was working on it for quite a while, but this gave me an opportunity to get stuck into my cross stitch.
We ate dinner onboard this evening, a special treat with our sausages from the import shop. Sausages and salad. Quite a weird combination, but it was very yummy indeed. And, they weren't even Richmond Sausages either!
Six of us went out for a drink later on. Been to the same bar three nights running now. Tonight Peter and Dominique on Paikea joined us to. They are 'Finike Escapees' just like the rest of us. Then an ice-cream on the way home. Delicious, but pricey.
Saturday 10th June...
Linda - Last minute shopping before we leave tomorrow. Not much to do really. Dean had a Eureka moment to do with his fridge/freezer issues. He went off to buy a single earth bus (very last one in the shop) as he wanted to move the newly installed fridge/freezer cables to the other side of the shunt (whatever that means).
The new single bus in situ
Close up
Just after lunchtime, eight of us went for an unusual chill out at the marina swimming pool. We don't get to do this often, hardly ever actually. The six of us were joined by yet more Finike Escapees... Aussies Mick & Mandy on Kirrikie. We had the whole swimming pool to ourselves!
Dean spent most of the afternoon listening to the TT races on the Manx radio station. He really enjoyed himself.
Here he is
Pool
Me
Me again
The pool is mine, with all the others on the sunbeds
Phil
Me, yet again
And so, this evening Phil, Cristina, Dean and myself decided to eat at the Fish & Chips restaurant once more. We never know how long we shall have to wait for the next opportunity.
The next blog post will be called 'Rolling down the coast, anchorage hopping'
