Adventures of Thésée: Skirting the Golfo de Cadiz

Thursday 20th September… So, we were up early to hand over the hire car at 9am… they were half hour late. It didn’t delay our departure though and by 10am we were saying cheerio to our boaty neighbours and checking out of Marina de Portimao. We’ve been around here for almost a month and it was starting to feel like home. On the other hand we were all geared up and enthusiastic about moving onto the next stage of our journey… reaching Gibraltar. There was another fancy yacht on the reception pontoon as we left. It had a strange name… We’re Dreams… registered in the Cayman Islands… nice. As we were exiting the harbour we heard Dorothea III (the $50 million yacht) on the VHF radio getting ready to depart to Faro. Oh no! That’s where we’re going! We know it’s just an anchorage at Faro so they better not pinch our spot or there’ll be trouble.

This morning's sunrise in Marina de Portimao

Ooh, you're another fancy yacht.... We're Dreams

Thesee you're still the best!

Ready for departure on the reception pontoon

About 30 minutes along the coast we passed about half a mile off Carvoeiro to give Linda’s Fab Friends a wave goodbye. We’re not sure who was about but I’m sure they would have given us a wave too.

So that was it, we made a course for Faro and settled down. ETA 6pm. For most of the journey there was no wind and the sea was calm with the odd bit of swell here and there. We had to motorsail the whole way as expected. There’s a big fish farm outside Faro and we think there are Tunny Nets too so we made sure to go outside of it. The place we were actually heading for was Illa de Culatra just outside Faro. It’s rather like Newtown Creek on the Isle of Wight, only much much bigger and much much busier with yachts, fishermen, and ferries from Faro and Olhao.

Thesee's trail in the smooth waters

Faro Fish Farm and Tunny Nets

We arrived a little earlier than planned and the tide was still on the ebb but we saw other yachts going in so we did too. Just near the breakwater the seabed shelves really quickly creating confused water and it was a bit bumpy for a couple of minutes. Dean handled the boat superbly, giving it plenty of power to see us through. Safely inside we spotted Dorothea III anchored and not in our spot after all. As we were earlier than expected we headed a couple of miles further in to the next anchorage and dropped the hook. For some reason the boat ahead of us had gone outside the port hand markers and gone aground, having to stop there until 10pm when the tide lifted it again.

By 7.30pm Dean had blown up the dinghy, we had been ashore with Saffy, and returned to the boat just as the sun dipped down below the horizon. A successful day.

Friday 21st September… This morning we went ashore again at Culatra. It’s just a tiny sandy island with two small communities. We felt like a tardis had transported us back 50 years. A completely different way of life to what we just left in Portimao. As we walked along the fishing harbour pontoon we spotted the day’s beer delivery… on the beach straight from a boat onto a tractor that was half in the water! Quite surreal.

Local Beer Delivery... Culatra style

So we walked through the village, it reminded us of when we were in Hoedic, France. No cars, or streets, or tarmac. Just sandy walkways in between the residences, but quite a number of café’s and a couple of stores. We found a boardwalk that went across to the sea and followed it to the beach with a small café with sunbeds and shades. But we couldn’t stop as….. No dogs allowed as per usual. On the way back we stopped for a drink at one of the cafes.

Retired fishing boat now a display piece

Is this the village square?

Beautiful Blooms

Sandy walkways

I'm following you Dean

The Main Road

Following the boardwalk...

.... to the dog-less (and people-less) beach

On the way back now

The Social Club

More abundant bushes

Back on Thesee we spotted a man going by in his boat full of sand with two shovels sticking out. His boat was so full of sand he looked like he was sinking. Here in the anchorage we are right under the Faro flight path so we get a lot of planes go over. You don’t really notice it too much though, and none at night time.

Your boat's sinking mate

Looking up at the landing aircraft

Dean spent quite a while fiddling with his battery volts and amps while Linda checked the weather forecast. We quite like it here but we think we will have to move on soon as there is a blow coming through next week so we need to be tucked up out of the way. It was another hot day and we relaxed in the cockpit this afternoon. Linda even had her bikini on. We realised it was Thesee Friday so our special Thesee Rum & Coke glasses and we sat and enjoyed a drink watching boats coming and going in the anchorage. Afterwards we both had a solar shower. Dean has used it before but Linda couldn’t believe how hot the water was, just like out of a hot tap… amazing.

Thesee anchored in the calm waters today

.... a close up... i like this one

Bird watching??

Dog snoozing

Sun setting

Saturday 22nd September… So we’re trying to work out a plan to get us to Gibraltar, but it seems there is a Levanter going on and the wind has been blowing east to west for over a week and there is no sign of it changing for at least the next week or so.

We got up early and left the anchorage just after sunrise, having calculated today was the best weather day to move on again. We still had wind against us and so motored for the 5 hours to Ayamonte on the River Guadiana. The river is actually the border between Portugal and Spain. We needed to be there by 1pm ish to take us in on the last of the high tide. This is a major river and you really don’t want to be going against the flow as the streams run fast. There’s a narrow channel to follow as you approach with some shallow patches but the lowest depth we saw was 4.4 metres. Once in the river it’s just a couple of miles up to Ayamonte. Even though it was almost high water Dean said there was still tide running across the marina entrance as we arrived. Once we identified our allocated berth it looked a little tricky, but turned out fine with more width than it seemed.

All quiet as we say goodbye to Culatra

Dorothea III and Post One are still here looking pretty

Approaching Ayamonte we change back into Spain mode

Two countries in one photo!

Portugal left, Spain right

A short while later we went to check in. There’s a couple of Brit boats here but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of boats coming and going. The marina and surroundings are very nice and we feel that we quite like it. Some time later we realised that we had to put our clocks forward an hour for the Spanish time zone. It’s a bit weird to think the town across on the Portuguese side of the Guadiana is one hour difference. We would have liked to take Thesee up the river to Alcoutim (20 miles upstream) for a few days. The river is navigable but there is a bridge with 20 metres (they say!) clearance and it's touch and go whether we would get under it or not.

Here's the bridge in question

Tonight we took a walk around town. It was buzzing with locals. There are pretty plazas and lots of traditional bars and restaurants. All very Spanish and not the usual touristy gift shop kind of thing. Well after all, we are in Andalucia now.

Caught Thesee's reflection on the stern fender on arrival

'Vessel Finder' showing us in Ayamonte marina

Sunday 23rd September… Woke up at 8am and it was just getting light. Poached eggs on toast for breakfast as it was the weekend, then spent some time writing up yesterday’s blog, trying to sort out Linda's data roaming issues, and Dean did some work and caught up with emails and bits ‘n’ bobs. Still debating going under ‘the bridge’, but think we are erring on the side of caution.

Late afternoon we took another stroll around town. The place was deserted but it was nice to wander around, and we found another amazing plaza. We stopped for ice-creams, mango and strawberry. This is a lovely town, I think Dean has moved in already. It’s been especially hot the last few days. Today inside the boat was 33 degrees. It’s now 8.30pm and it’s still over 30 degrees. Here's the day's pictures.....

Marina side

Thesee... fourth boat on left hand side

In the park

Plaza number 1

Beautiful blue tiled seating all around

The Theatre

The Church

Plaza number 2

Dean taking some shade

Linda one on of the lovely seats

Tourist group

Dean, you and your ice cream match the seats

Monday 24th September… The shops and Tourist Office were open today. We popped in to get a town map and then Dean visited almost every Chandlery and Ferreteria (Hardware Shop) in town with his latest list which includes fins for the outboard engine and a DC Amps meter. We found the 'Bull Ring' but the doors were closed so couldn't see inside this time. The temperature is still above 30 degrees but we got back fairly early afternoon, having popped into the supermarket next door to the marina. Handy that is.

Bull Ring - Plaza de Toros de Ayamonte

Linda spent the afternoon trying to solve her mobile internet connection issues and did finally get it sorted out. Keeping an eye out for favourable weather in the bay. Looks like we’ll be here for a few more days.

Tuesday 25th September… Got the bikes out and went for a really lovely cycle ride to Isla Canela about 4 miles away. Isla Canela is Ayamonte’s beach resort. They have a marina too and we wanted to have a look around. We had forgotten how great Spain is for their cycle routes. We cycled the whole way on designated cycle paths in complete safety. The route was flat and the surroundings I could describe as almost tropical. It was a lovely ride both there and back. The hotels and apartments at Isla Canela look very upmarket, even more so than we expected. A couple of the hotels were just fabulous. One was built in Arabic style, and another had the most amazing blue and beige tiled roofs.

Well done Spain on your excellent two way cycle paths

Approaching Isla Canela

Getting nearer

One of the posh hotels

....with incredibly beautiful roofs

Beautiful tiling on the apartment entrances

The resort was almost deserted though, and the first beachside café we stopped at only had one other couple seated. The waitress did not understand English, and so the lady at the other table translated for us in the most perfect way. She said… The waitress has asked me to translate your wishes. How sweet is that? Lunch stop wasn’t so exciting though. The first café didn’t serve food! The second café only offered Spanish Omelette Baguette, and some other weird thing that Dean ended up with. They must have been leftovers from high season, lol.

We got on our way and were back on Thesee in no time at all. That’s the exercise for today then. We don’t even have sore bums. Must be getting used to this cycling lark. Still trying to decide our next plan of action. It wasn’t so hot today, and it was extremely pleasant sitting outside this evening. That was until the sun set and the mozzies appeared in force.

Wednesday 26th September... Thankyou Dean for writing today's blog... Today was pretty much a sort it out and tidy away day ready for our departure tomorrow.

Once the weather was checked “again” we walked Saffy, hosed down the deck, put the bikes away, cleaned the dinghy and put that away, then hosed the deck again after Saffy had left dirty foot prints all over!

Dean then fitted some mesh to the small port holes in an effort to keep the mossies out. Just before lunch came along he started to fit the doel-fins! This is a wing that fastens to the outboard motor which will hopefully stop the prop from cavitating.

The new Doel-fin attached to the outboard motor

While all this was going on Linda did some washing, it turns out that the marina washing machine is broken, so back to hand washing! At least drying the washing is easy with a 20 knot wind and 35 degrees temperature again today.

We decided to go and do some shopping as the supermarket is close by so not a long way to carry everything. It’s surprising when you’re working in the heat of the day even in the shade and you come out of the supermarket and wham it hits you again.

Anyway, we tried to settle the bill at the marina office but guess what? They're closed as it’s low season. Anyway they are going to send the bill and we’ll pay by BACS later. Pity the cost is not low season also! Linda couldn't resist taking a photo of a road sign. They look like they're all individually made..... so intricate in detail.

All the road signs are a mouthful.

But so beautifully made.

Anyway as I said we're all ready to move on tomorrow. High water is early so we need to be away by 7.30am. This is a nice place but the Med beckons. The forecast says the wind is on the nose tomorrow and we have quite a long way to go so it looks like we will be tacking for most of the way. Hopefully the wind will continue as we’re low on diesel and with duty free diesel just around the corner at Gibraltar we don’t want to fill up here in Spain.

Thursday 27th September… Eager to move on again we arose at 6.30am and were ready to cast off as soon as dawn broke around 7.45pm. We left the marina and entered the river at about half ebbing tide. Enough water to cross the bar outside the entrance, and light enough for us to see where we were going and to miss all the fishing pots. Well we hadn’t even got half way down the river and the swell was already getting nasty. By the time we reached the bar and the two red/green buoys it was quite horrendous, but there was no going back now, we just had to go with it. There was only about 12 knots of wind so we couldn’t really understand why it was so bad.

We managed to get the mainsail up and made as good a course as possible under the conditions. We really wanted to sail and not motor because it was going to be a long journey… 75 miles at least and we also wanted to arrive before dark. The wind was slightly better direction than anticipated and so we headed out across the gulf on about 150 degrees heading, destination Chipiona. Ideally we would have liked 110 degrees but the wind wasn’t being good to us. The swell was still really horrible. So staying on the same tack after about 6 hours we ended up in the middle of the gulf. By this time we were almost due west of Chipiona but still about 6 hours out when the wind and swell both reduced and we put the engine on, changing course to east. All was quite pleasant for a couple of hours then the wind started to return and we sailed once again. Unfortunately that wasn’t for long because we couldn’t get a good heading and the wind was now 18 to 24 knots and the swell very horrible again. For the last 2 hours of the journey we endured bad conditions, all three of us counting down the time until arrival at the Fairway Buoy which was called No.1 El Perro. Perro is Spanish for dog, and as you know our very own Saffy Perro’s name, so that gave us some amusement to lighten the situation.

Finally at 8.28pm we arrived at Chipiona Marina and berthed on the reception pontoon. Two minutes earlier than anticipated after all of that! Dean likes to give the marinas a name of his own and this one has been christened Chipolata. The red on our Black Country flag was hanging on by a thread this morning but it didn’t make it all the way to Chipolata, it’s obviously now floating around somewhere in the Bay of Cadiz for the rest of eternity. On a good note, no eggs were broken during this very eventful day. We all gave Thesee a really big hug and squeeze, had a large rum & coke (even Saffy had one), then went to bed quite shattered but thankfully safe and sound.

Here's the photo of today's track from Ayamonte to Chipiona

Friday 28th September… Up fairly early as we were still on the reception pontoon and had to see the office and move the boat along out of the way. Dean did SOME MORE fuel calculations. The gauge shows we’re down to a third of a tank but we are trying to hold out until Gibraltar as we’ve been told it’s only 57p per litre there. We decided not to push our luck, and put 50 euros worth in to take us up to about half a tank.

Checking the weather forecast it seems there is a glimmer of hope for a wind change through the Straits of Gibraltar on Monday (for one day only) so we are considering whether to go for it or wait another week. Dean has some documents coming from the UK being delivered to Cadiz marina so we can’t make a decision what to do until they arrive. He phoned up Cadiz to ask about it and we were happy to hear that the mail had arrived.

We had a little walk about in Chipiona town to try and get our money’s worth out of the marina fee. It was really quite pleasant, stopping for a coffee and strolling the promenade to the Pointa del Perro lighthouse. They must like Perros around here.

Walking along the promenade in Chipiona

Dean and Saffy Perro at the castle

This is Pointa del Perro lighthouse

Little bird having a bath in the sprinklers

Nice views and buildings

Having a quick coffee and cake in the town streets

Nice roundabout, nice lady, nice flowers

Then we left the marina at around 2pm, once again with enough tide to safely manoeuvre out of the channel. Wind on the nose again but not a lot of swell today. 10 miles down the coast there are three marinas to choose from, Rota, Puerto Sherry, and Puerto America (Cadiz). Originally we were going to go to Puerto Sherry but decided on Puerto America (Cadiz) instead as this meant we could pick up the mail and deal with it. It was really windy on arrival and berthing was tricky. We had been told on the VHF to berth anywhere on Pontoon I. On approach we decided which berth to go for, but in the marina the staff on duty kept pointing to different berths and we didn’t know if we were coming or going. It was difficult in the wind and the bow thruster wasn’t helping. We must have tried to get into four different berths, having to move fenders up, down, and side to side. By this time we had a crowd watching (all keeping their eye on us with fenders in hand, hoping we wouldn’t try and berth next to them I’m sure!). Funnily enough the berth we ended up in is probably the best berth on the pontoon shelterwise.

No.1 El Perro safe water buoy, leaving Chipiona

Much better seas today

Cadiz appearing

Views of Puenta de la Constitucion de 1812

Some friends are already here on their boat Bora La. We haven’t seen them since Cascais, Lisbon. They didn’t see us arrive and we surprised them later on as they walked past on their way out to dinner at a Tapas Bar in town. They persuaded us to go along with them so we quickly got changed and off we all went on about a 20 minute walk for a Friday night out in Cadiz. It was all a bit surreal. The town was buzzing. We arrived at La Taperia about 8.20pm and there was a queue of people waiting for it to open. Apparantly it’s like this every night. Just as we arrived they opened the doors and in we went, just about managing to get a table. It was a really good night and great to catch up with Phil and Chris again. Thanks very much for paying the bill guys. It was 1am when we dropped into bed.

Saturday 29th September… Ooh a bit of a lie in due to our late night last night. Gibraltar weather still looks good for Monday and we’ve managed to secure a berth for Monday evening at Alcadeisa Marina. Not officially in Gibraltar, it’s in Spain but only just the other side of the runway at Gibraltar Airport. So it looks like we’re going to make a go for the Straits while we can.

About midday we took a walk into Cadiz town again. It was very busy and we got a chance to see some of the lovely sights in daylight. Dean got his correspondence mailed back to the UK, and we stopped for a quick lunch in a well placed café where we could watch the world go by. When we got back Dean washed the decks and Linda caught up on two days worth of blogging.

Some wonderful monuments in the parks

Now at the Cathedral

Lunch..... Tuna salad for Dean

Actually just Tuna & Tomato

Thesee's berth in Cadiz

There are a number of boats here with the same plan as us for Gibraltar, so I guess we’ll not be alone on our travels the next couple of days.

Sunday 30th September… We’ve been on our travels for five months now, can’t believe it really, and now we’re homing in on Gibraltar. Today we left Cadiz at 8.30am and made way south heading to Barbate for the night. It’s about a forty mile trip today, and this will put us only about another thirty five miles away from Gibraltar. The journey started off pretty well and we eventually neared Cape Trafalgar, but the weather ahead looked bleak. We were sailing for a while but the heading wasn’t too brilliant, the wind got up and the swell too. Then it started to RAIN….yes RAIN… the first we’ve seen since Gijon in North Spain we reckon. The conditions were unpleasant (yet again). It’s so annoying one minute there’s one knot of wind, 10 minutes later you’re fighting 20 knots. To cut the story short we motored into Barbate at 5pm. Once again, glad to arrive. Dean’s in some pain with his back. Let’s hope he’s good for the morning and an early start on the last leg of the Atlantic coast.