Carry On up the Costa

Thursday 11th October … Oh hangover! We were drinking red wine until gone 1.30am this morning. Can’t even remember going to bed. We woke to thick cloud and rain as predicted and quite a lot of it too. The visibility was bad and we couldn’t even see The Rock at all at first. However the rain was due to stop at around midday, so we decided that we still wanted to get going and slowly prepared for departure while the headache tablets kicked in. 

It was around 11.30am when we left the berth, after watching another departing boat get stuck on the anchor of the boat next door to us! We cast the lines and we both thought that our bow thruster didn’t seem to be perfoming properly. Anyway we stopped at the office, paid our 10 days dues, and thanked them for a great stay. This marina is one of the best we’ve come across (if not THE best) on our adventures.

Out into the bay there were so many ships at anchor, must have been about 25 ships I guess. Plus there was a cruise ship coming in called Magellan. We’ve seen this cruise ship before but can’t remember where. It’s very distinctive with a big whale tail on the top. Will have to look back through the blog to see where we last saw it. 

Saying Cheerio to Gibraltar as we head out of the marina

Here's Magellan, just arriving

As we rounded Europa Point at the southern tip of Gibraltar there were some overfalls but they weren’t too bad. It was the swell that took us by surprise more than anything. It wasn’t nasty but we just didn’t expect it, and it went on for a good few miles up the coast too. It was good to see the ‘other’ side of The Rock for a change, and we also had an Easy Jet plane come in to land as we passed the end of the runway. There were about another 11 ships at anchor here.

Europa Point. Wouldn't fancy rounding this in bad weather.

Now at the 'other' side of the rock, where we cycled the other day.

 Here comes another set of holidaymakers

Almost touchdown

The last of the shipping

The wind hadn’t even reached 5 knots so we were still motoring two hours into the journey of around 6 hours along our first taste of the Costa del Sol towards Estepona. Then just like someone switched the wind on, within minutes it rose to 11 knots, then 17 knots, then 22 knots. Time to switch the engine off and roll the genoa out for a bit of downwind sailing. In fact we sailed for the next three hours all the way to Estepona. We hadn’t booked a berth and were hoping they wouldn’t turn us away. Plan B was to anchor outside the harbour but we really didn’t want to do that as the sea was somewhat choppy. 

Last look back at this World Famous Rock

Dean's first photo sailing in the Med

Nearing Estepona now

We entered the harbour, still our underperforming bow thruster on our minds. The marinero saw us heading for the waiting pontoon and directed us straight to a berth. It was our first stern to mooring with lazy lines. Quite a common way of mooring in the Med. There are no finger pontoons, just one long pontoon and you have to reverse back in to the pontoon and throw your lines from the aft corners of the boat so that the marinero can secure the lines through a ring. Then you have to pick up a lazy line which goes onto the bow cleats to keep the bow in place. It’s all makes a bit of mess on the deck with the lazy lines, but it worked well and nothing went wrong. So we had to have another drink to celebrate our first effort. Now I know why sailors are always drunk. 

We've arrived. What a lovely place.

Free bottle of wine when you check in. Oh no more hangovers.

Vessel Finder shows our route today. 

The coloured dots are all ships at anchor, and the coloured arrows are ships moving.

Thesee tonight with new lazy lines set-up

Quick walkies around the marina

Lots of restaurants. Looks really nice.

Friday 12th October … Couldn’t wait to get out and about this morning after we’ve heard so many good reports about this town. So we started with the long stroll along the seafront, and it didn’t disappoint. It was a Bank Holiday today (lol, shops closed again) but there were quite a lot of people about yet it was peaceful. 

Yesterday I forgot to write about all the vegetation and branches we came across drifting in the sea between Gibraltar and here. Well today we think we know what it was all about because there were tractors all along the beach this morning clearing the very same. Three days ago there was very heavy rainfall and storms in Malaga area (remember I said Dean saw lightening that night at 1.30am) and it would seem that all this vegetation has been washed down the rivers, onto the beaches, and out to sea. All makes sense now. 

No Bank Holiday for these workers clearing up after the storm

Dark sand here in Estepona but a beautiful beach anyway.

Lots of Oases (that's the plural of Oasis we just found out)

Girls having a whale of a time on the beach

Can you spot the Intruder?

More clearing up

More Oases!

Along the seafront we stopped for coffee. There were some amazing looking beach bars, well… beach shacks really.  We decided to head a few streets back and walk through the old town. We’ve never seen so many flowers and flower pots before. Almost every street was covered, all colour coded, one street red pots, another yellow pots and so on. It really was a beautiful sight and we’re so pleased we did some exploring.  Here's some photos we took around town.

Bet this will be busy later

Very quaint

The red pots street

Beautiful road signs

The yellow pots street

This is a tree

Fountains and Waterfalls in this street

Church of Our Lady of Remedies

Outside the Bull Ring

More wonderful flowers here

Boat on a traffic island

We came across a Chinese Bazaar and Dean bought another thermometer (the last one only lasted for one sail and threw itself overboard). That was the horrible trip from Ayamonte to Chipiona. It was a hot day today… the new thermometer read 30 degrees. 

Saturday 13th October … Another leisurely day in lovely Estepona, and early this afternoon we walked the coast in the other direction for about a mile or so. Not so exciting this time as we followed the road (albeit a beautifully flowered road) and came back along the beach. We tried to remember when we last walked along a beach. It was a bit tricky after the beach ended, and the so called car park was just a big muddy sandy bushy mess in most places so we had to pick our way through, even walking along the top of a wall in some parts. 

Gorgeous sea-front apartments

We walked all the way from over there

Heading back home now

..... doing the wall walk

All three of us are well and doing our best at relaxing. Dean is reading an e-book, and Linda (who never reads books) is reading Robin Knox-Johnston’s book telling the story of the 1968 Golden Globe Race when he was the first person to sail around the world single handedly non-stop. She’s not in a jigsaw mood at the moment, too busy thinking about coming home in just 12 days time! 

We paid up our marina fees. We’re planning on leaving tomorrow because we have westerly winds to help us along but we might change our minds. All depends on how we feel in the morning I suppose. 

Sunday 14th October … Had a quick look around the local Sunday market before we left Estepona this morning at about 10.30am. The sea wasn’t kind to us today, and the wind much higher than expected. So it was about a 6 hour trip to Benalmadena. About an hour into the journey the sea state got quite rough and the wind was averageing about 24 knots. As we crossed the bay at Marbella the waves really were quite large to say the least and we had to reef the genoa on and off to compensate for the wind. We eventually discussed diverting into Marbella, not a great choice for Thesee, and to get there we would have to jibe the sail, and subsequently sail beam on to the swell. We both agreed it would be better to carry on as we were, and continue onto Benalmadena (or Fuengirola if need be). 

Just about missing this morning's rain as we left Estepona

More debris in the water... this time a chair! 😮

Benalmadena was our Plan A because we had considered it as an option for where Dean will stay whilst Linda is back in the UK, and we wanted to try it out. Reefing the sail again, Thesee was happier and everthing was under control, albeit the odd bigger wave here and there which would rock us about a fair bit. After rounding Punta de Calaburras we jibed the genoa, the wind dropped off, and for an hour or so everything was quite sweet. We passed Fuengirola marina. We had enquired about a berth a few days ago but got a ‘we are full’ reply. Anyway, we had to start the motor as the wind was down to just 1.3 knots. Not long afterwards the wind came back with a vengeance and from then on we had 20 knots all the way to Benalmadena.

Passing Fuengirola

Here comes Benalmadena

From the photos you probably think the sea looks calm here. I've realised that i don't take photos when it's rough because we're too busy concentrating and looking after Thesee. 

We arrived in the windy marina and got onto the waiting pontoon first time. Dean went to check in and we were allocated a berth. It was another stern to berth with lazy lines. This time it was tight and the wind (still blowing 20 knots from the side) made berthing difficult. Dean got Thesee into the space first time. It’s not a very good berth but we can cope with it. The marina charged us 54 Euro for one night… ouch… there’s not even security gates. It’s definitely not the place for Dean to stay for two weeks, so we’re going to move on tomorrow to see if the next place is any good. 

Being stern to mooring, Dean has the opportunity to get out the passarelle that he made. It’s working well, apart from the big cleat on the pontoon that’s right in the way. 

You really want me to walk along that plank?

Come on Saffy Perro, you can do it

Weird array of apartment blocks in the marina

Red clouds tonight

Monday 15th October … Got up fairly early, if that’s what you call 9am. Well it was light anyway. A little umming and arring ensued about whether we should leave or not, and we subsequently decided to leave. The Plan A was to get to Caleta de Valez, with a Plan B of heading into Marbella beforehand dependant upon what the sea was like. 

We agreed that it was best to hug the coastline and stay about one mile offshore instead of going straight across the bay like yesterday where the horizon did indeed look rather daunting. There was a fair bit of wind but we motored northish at first knowing we would have to turn east around Malaga area. Everything was going well and the sea was kind, so we turned onto a 90 degrees heading and rolled the genoa out. The next two hours or so were pleasantly relaxing going with wind and the waves passing Malaga and watching plane after plane coming into land. Dean tried his hand at abit of fishing and unbelievably caught 3 mackerel, the first one coming after about only 1 minute. Let's hope he gives them to Saffy Perro and doesn't make Linda eat one. 

Stunning coastline around Malaga area

The black object you can see is a Bull statue

Sorry couldn't zoom in enough

One of the fishing boats returning to harbour tonight

Approaching Caleta de Velez we had to avoid two fish farms, one which the chartplotter said was submerged, but it clearly was not! Arriving at the marina we called up on the VHF and they allocated us a berth. By this time the wind was up to 25 knots and there was no way we could get into the real tricky berth they had allocated…. In a corner behind another boat and one at the side! Dean tried to get into the berth about 6 times having to abort every time due to the bow kept being blown off. The last attempt ended at getting our keel stuck in the lazy lines of other moored boats. There was no option but to go back to the fuel berth and moor alongside. 

A while afterwards we had cooled off and checked weather and options. We realised that we were not actually in the marina but we were in the fishing port, and they would not let us stay here. Dean had to make his way through the fish market and out to the marina office. We thought we would try the berth again once the wind had dropped off later on, but the marina office advised us to go on the Waiting Pontoon hammerhead instead. Which we did and got on first time. 

So feeling a lot happier now, we took a stroll through the main street in town. It’s not Costa del Sol as you would imagine, just a local Spanish town with no Brits (except us). The hammerhead we are on is quite small and Thesee’s ends both stick out, but at least we are legal and the marina staff have been very good. Best of all is that it only costs 27 euros per night!!!

Tuesday 16th October … Still planning our week ahead and it does indeed look like we’ll be aiming to arrive at Almerimar by the weekend. Almerimar is where we are going to spend three months over winter time, and we hadn’t really expected to be there before the end of November so we’ll be about a month early. Hopefully they will still let us in!  The marinas along this coast from Gibraltar have not been that special (except lovely Estepona) and most have been overpriced, so we’ve given them a miss where we could. 

So this morning we asked the marina here at Caleta de Velez if we could stay another night and they ok’d that for us. They’re very helpful here. Dean went for a shower and it was cold water (apparently solar powered he found out afterwards). He’s trying to work out a way we can use the passarelle from the bow of the boat, so taking measurements and making cardboard cut-outs etc.

Late morning we took a nice walk along the seafront, stopping as always for a coffee. Then on the way back Dean chose a lovely café for lunch. They had really made an effort with the little touches and décor. They even had a bird outside in a cage. 

There’s been a lot of cloud around today, some very dark clouds on the mountains. However we still had a good few hours of sunshine and when we got back to the boat the temperature inside said 32 degrees. Once the sun goes in it soon goes chilly though. Here’s today’s photos….

Clouds inland on the mountains

Spanish & Andalusian flags flying in the marina

Telling the time on this sundial. 

We calculated it said 11.30am. It was actually 1.30pm.

GMT + 2 hrs maybe??

The beach is shingly and still dark 

..... but it was a lovely stroll along here

Looking up at the palms

Now this is very nice

Bird in cage at Cafe Loppen

This is our berth. You can see it's only about half size for Thesee.

Wednesday 17th October… Linda was woken at 6am by the sound of fishing boats returning with their catch. One of the boats was right by Thesee and she sat and watched them for a while as they sorted the fish into polystyrene boxes. 

We were up proper at 7am so we could leave at 9am, having to wait for the office to open to return the gate access card. It was a beautiful clear morning. Today’s journey was about 30 miles in total. We motored for the first three hours along the coast past Nerja, the coastline was beautiful and the sea very calm. Then we detoured a little and anchored for lunch just outside Marina del Este. It was a beautiful spot. We daren’t go in the marina as they want 75 euros per night. The anchorage reminded Linda of Mupe Bay in Dorset. Don't know why because it's nothing like it! As we dropped the hook we both noticed that we were anchored off a nudist beach…Yikes! Don’t look Saffy. We had some lunch and an hour or so relaxation. 

Somewhere along the coastline today.

See the bridge? There were lots like this.

Outside Marina del Este

Fantastic houses built on the rocks

The wind had picked up everso slightly and so when we continued we did a few miles sailing, but only at about 3 knots. Still it was so enjoyable and Dean caught another Mackerel too. Time was getting on, about 4pm by now with about another 5 miles to go so we motored the rest of the way. One reason was that another boat was catching us up and we didn’t want it to beat us to the marina and pinch our space….. if there was one. It’s always a worry knowing if you will be turned away or not. Anyway Dean called up the marina and successfully managed to reserve a berth.

Landing the Mackerel

Here it is

We arrived at Motril about 5pm. It’s a Real Club Nautico so feels abit like a private yacht club. More stern to mooring here as per the norm these days. Think we are in Granada now. Dean modified the passarelle so that it would reach the pontoon. He’s so clever….. and so pleased with himself too. Will get a photo tomorrow.


Thursday 18th October…  Dean was up first today, nearly as always. He reported that there had been some changes overnight. Motril is a major shipping port on this coast (it’s the Costa Tropical apparently), and Dean was excited to report the departure of the very nearby cargo ship, an arrival of a ro-ro ferry from Melilla, and biggest excitement was the arrival of the Royal Clipper Sailing Vessel (Maltese Flag). It has five masts with 4 or 5 yard-arms on each mast. A huge thing, and a very unusual sight. Here's some photos of it leaving this afternoon..

 

Looks like a pile of scaffolding

It was rather cloudy and slightly chilly so we put trousers on! … negotiated the passarelle, and took a late morning walk around the local shops outside the port. Nothing special, just a couple of bazaars and a supermarket, where we managed to buy a ‘normal’ cucumber. Most places only sell Pepinos. Motril main town is about 2km away. On the way back it started to rain and we went into the Club House for a coffee and shelter until the rain passed. Trouble was, an hour later it was still pouring down, with the odd thunder and lightning. In the end we got fed up of waiting and made a dash for the boat. The rain didn’t let up for at least another 3 hours.

Dean & Saffy Perro safely off the end of the Passarelle

Now it's Linda's turn... mind your step

 

Nice gardens outside the Club House

We put the heater on and got the place warm. Dean watched a DVD and Linda made Chocolate Chip cookies. Then we tried out the shower facilities. Linda had to share hers with two cockroaches, one dead, one alive. Plus she forgot to take her flip-flops so it was extra scary. Dean had a chat with a couple of neighbouring boat’s crew, one Polish, one Norwegian. He’s obviously fluent in both languages. When the rain stopped it was quite pleasant, and we noticed that snow had appeared on the mountains inland. That wasn’t there yesterday. Yes we had a fair bit of rain today, but can’t believe it snowed on the mountain-tops!

Is that really snow up there on those mountains?

  

 

Yes, it definately is snow.... Wow

Tonight we went for a meal and drinks at the Club House. It was a little disappointing, there was hardly anyone in there. The waiter must have got a little confused because Linda’s order of Grilled Chicken and Chips arrived as Lamb Shank and Chips. It was still good and tasty. Good job they didn’t get it mixed up with something fishy, or it would have been sent back! The TV was on in the bar and we were watching all about the flooding in the Valencia area. We didn’t know anything about that. 

Friday 19th October…  So it was the big last hop for Thésée and crew today. We’re quite a few weeks ahead of schedule but the weather’s becoming unpredictable and the Costa del Sol’s marinas haven’t been special enough to cause us to want to stay for too long. 

And so we left Motril about 8.30am following two other boats out doing the same trip today. All was calm but we were expecting head winds later on so we didn’t put any sail out. Our trip was about 35 miles to Almerimar, and what spectacular views we had of the mountains with their layer of snowfall yesterday. 

Sunrise

This vessel is called Open Arms.

We think it's a search & rescue vessel for migrants.

Now we're coming across the greenhouses that cover this part of the coast.

Gorgeous views of the Sierra Nevada range here

It was about half way when the head winds began and soon rose to 15-18 knots making the sea very choppy, and causing Thesee to bash about abit on the bigger waves. We’ve been used to going in the same direction as the waves, therefore riding over them. It’s been a while since we had the waves against us and Saffy returned to her old panicky self. Mind you, Linda wasn’t that keen either. 

We were glad to reach Almerimar and tie up on the checking in pontoon. It was during the two hour lunch break and we had to wait an hour until they would check us in. By this time a number of boats had arrived, so it was a slow process. Anyway, we did the formalities and the staff were very good. They allocated us a berth and we arrived to find two berthing staff ready to take lines. We have Beneteau 50’s either side of us! Just like Thesee. After settling in we celebrated our arrival with Friday Thesee Rum & Cokes.

Entering the channel at Almerimar

Looks nice here

This is the Capitainia

Thésée Friday arrival celebrations

Cheers, we did it!

Later we took a walk around the marina. We have friends here who we haven’t seen since back in Camarinas about three months ago, so we went to find their boat. They have two dogs so it was a bit of doggie meet up too. We went onboard and had a glass of wine and catch-up and then back to bed. Quite exhausted and elated. 

Thesee and the Three Sailors have been on the ocean wave for 170 days, covered 2200 miles, visited 72 ports and anchorages, and written 19 separate Blog Post entries. We will be staying here at Almerimar for the next few months until winter passes by. The Blog Authoress is going home to the UK for a visit next week, and so for the winter we shall be updating the blog weekly instead of daily. 

Many thanks to all Thesee Followers for keeping in touch and following our adventures. Your interest makes it worth all the effort. 

And so this will be the last Blog Post entitled ‘Carry on up the Costa’ 
The next Blog Post will be entitled ‘Almerimar - October 2018’