Adventures of Thésée: Trying to get past Rome

Trying to get past Rome

Sunday 29th September... We've been having internet issues hence today's news is a little late... Our chartplotter was playing up today when we left the anchorage at Punta Ala, it was really having a serious headache. We have two display units... one inside the saloon, and the other outside in the cockpit. They are supposed to 'talk' to each other but the outside one was having none of it. Eventually Dean managed to get it to show our position but it wasn't showing the heading or course. We made sure we took regular position readings and also photos from the one that was working correctly

This is a photo from the good display unit

We were heading to San Stefano and on the way we passed what looked like a huge submarine, but infact it was just an island.

Definately looks like a sub from afar

San Stefano is on the north side of a massive promotory called Monte Argentario. It used to be an island but is now joined to the mainland by silt deposits. We found a decent anchorage in a bay to the east of San Stefano, near Santa Liberata. It was pleasant and calm, but going ashore the beach was quite dismal. Nevertheless, it was landable for walkies.

At the anchorage

Few boats already here, but they all left later on

Nice little beach cafe, but most places are winding down for the winter

Monday 30th September... A really quiet day and calm in the water. We are really well sheltered here from the southerly winds. We did get another neighbour today and then early evening seven sea school boats invaded the anchorage and stayed overnight. When we went ashore this evening one of the bolts holding the dinghy wheels sheared off completely. More maintenance for Dean, who had already been doing his monthly checks all day. The batteries are causing some stress again, still we have been doing a lot of anchoring lately, in fact 8 days consecutive.

Our height of excitement for the day, watching a lone fisherman drift by

Here's the loose dinghy bracket after the bottom screw snapped off

Tuesday 1st October... We set off about 10am with the aim of getting to a marina near Civitavecchia, but it wasn't a good day. The wind direction didn't change as predicted and we found ourselves having to tack into it, hence it took three hours just to get around the headland. We decided that we wouldn't be able to make the planned destination before dark and so reverted to plan B to go into a marina on the the south side of Monte Argentario. The sea was fairly big, more so than the 0.5 metre height we had been expecting.

We arrived in the harbour at Porto Ercole and it took ages for the marina to respond to our request for a berth. We were on the brink of giving up when we finally got some attention. It's pretty expensive marinas in this area, but the southerly winds are against us still, and hindering our route down the coast. Seems the winds spurt out of the Gulf of Lion and then through the Bonifacio Strait (between Corsica and Sardinia), and then travel across to the mainland which is around the Rome area. We'll be glad to get past the next 100 miles as so far it's just been a complete headache. Tonight we saw a US yacht on what looked like the Town Quay. We need to investigate this Town Quay thing further as we believe that some are free, or at least a vastly reduced price.

We got sandwiched again today by this ship...

... and this one

This is the Public Quay at Porto Ercole

Wednesday 2nd October... The day started very stormy and we could see white horses on the sea outside the harbour. By midday it had petered out somewhat and Dean begrudgingly went to pay the expensive marina for two nights berthing as it was clear we weren't able to sail south today.

Grey cloudy skies start the day

After lunch we took a mini ramble up to Fort Filippo, it was a warm afternoon and Saffy was suffering a little with the climb and the heat. We had to keep checking her feet because she gets little prickly balls stuck between her claws and they're very painful.

We reached the Fort and took the walkway around the ramparts. It was a lovely walk with spectacular views in every direction. From the Fort we could see the other marina around the headland and we were taken aback to see five boats at anchor just off the beach. Damn... we just paid a load of money to stay in our marina again tonight!

View from the hillside on our mini ramble

Thesee's down there... middle left

Looks like there are apartments here at Fort Fillipo

Just look at those anchored boats having a free stop-over

From this viewpoint we can see Marina Galera

Lovely greenery on the way down

Saffy getting a carry

We passed a very biker friendly cafe

and this monument, but we have no idea what it's about

It turned into a pleasant afternoon and after a beer on the quayside we did a bit of shopping. We're still trying to choose which day we can make it to Civitaveccia which is about 40 miles down the coast. Maybe tomorrow... weather check first thing.

Thursday 3rd October... HAPPY BIRTHDAY JADE xxx

Well there was a right old gale forecast for this afternoon in Civitaveccia, so we couldn't risk sailing there today. Turns out they had 33 knots, so it's a good job we didn't go as that's outside my comfort zone. Here in Porto Ercole it was calm enough to move just a mile away to the other marina called Cala Galera, and the cost a whopping 52 euros per night cheaper than Porto Ercole. Now that's worth moving for. Dean found some proper nuts and bolts in the Chandlery here and was able to repair the dinghy wheel bracket that broke the other day.

The new nuts and bolts in place

Might as well do the other side as well

This afternoon the wind did blow up somewhat and all the flags in and around the marina were doing some serious flapping. About 7pm, what looked like a converted trawler boat came in the marina and was trying to berth in the wind. Even with marina staff helping in two RIB's it could not get into a berth. It was really hair-raising to watch... in fact we couldn't watch at some points it was too scary. Eventually they had to give up and go back out to sea, we assume to the other marina where there is a harbour with more room to manoevre.

The flags in full swing at reception

...and on the nearby boats

The wind was quite chilly today being a North Easterly, quite a shock after yesterday's warm airs.

Friday 4th October... Tonight we are in Marina Riva di Traiano, which is about two miles south of Civitaveccia (where the cruise ships dock for Rome). We sailed the whole way here, 35 miles, leaving Cala Galeria at 9am and arriving here about 2.30pm. That was real good going on a beam reach with two reefs in the sails for a few hours, doing average 7 knots or so. Our friends on Impavidus and Etérnité have been here for a few days already and were awaiting our arrival to help us dock.

Dean was up early for the sunrise

The weather forecast today, pretty much spot on

Has Saffy taken to sleeping upright?

We think she was chilling in the sea breeze

Signs of industry near Civitaveccia

Now, we see today's cruise ship.... Costa Diadema

We've been doing some reading up on the next step of the journey, and in doing so found someone had written about their instruments and battery readings playing up in this area.... spooky, just like us! There have been reports of magnetic anomalities on the charts, so maybe we'll look into it further.

Saturday 5th October... Not really sure what to say about today. Dean spent the afternoon sanding down the teak handrails on the deck. We did a bit of catching up with our friends, and i did some washing as the launderette here in the marina has closed for the winter! The marina is out on a limb and quite a walk from any kind of civilization. Still, it does have a lot of chandlery and electronic type stores, and some are even OPEN. So it's pleasant enough, and at least it's not half finished like a lot of the places we've visited. There is a surge runs through here when the sea is up, and today we had a bit of to and fro-ing, as the swell outside was about a metre.

Sunday 6th October... Today we all moved 30 miles down the coast to Fiumicino ('Porto Turistico di Roma' to be precise). It's a strange layout with the entrance in the centre and open to seawards. We've read some horror stories about entering when the wind is blowing onshore, so we had to make sure it would be a calm day. In fact it was only 6 knots of wind so we had to motor the whole way. The sea was still choppy and there was some swaying side to side.

The marina is just south of the River Tiber which leads into Rome. When we neared the marina we called up on VHF 74 and they asked us to wait outside, seems there was a queue! Anyway it was a good 20 minutes we reckon before they called us in. We're right in the flight path for 'Leonardo da Vinci' International Airport... Lucky ME! Just as we had identified our berth number and were reversing in, the massive Emirates A380 Airbus took off right above us, but i daren't pick up the camera at that point! I'll have to look out for it tomorrow afternoon.

Morning walk at 'Riva di Traiano' before we set off

Nice bicycle collection

Saffy on the way, to and fro-ing

It's quite funny to watch

She's so chilled out these days..

Not like us

Final approach

Google's view of our marina

You can see the strange shaped entrance

Monday 7th October... Woke to rain, thunder, lightening, and wind on the nose. It wasn't long before we were being pushed back onto the quay and had to start the engine to keep us off, whilst Dean did his best to tighten the lazy line at the bow. There's only one lazy line here (normally you get one either side), and so the bow was being blown off to the starboard side. This pushes our aft starboard corner into the quay. The bow line is so thick and heavy. Dean radio'd for the harbour staff to come and give him a hand, but by the time they showed up Dean had sorted it out. Not a good start to the day, with a very lot of cussing and swearing going on.

We had to put the heater on inside the boat as it got real chilly. By midday the storm had passed and we were able to get off the boat to take Saffy out. Trouble is when you pull the boat forward to keep you off the quay, the passarrelle doesn't reach and we can't get off the boat! I tried to keep my spirits up by making an Apple Crumble and watching planes taking off and landing. Unfortunately i semi-missed the Emirates A380 take off, but did catch a Korean Airlines 747 coming in to land.

Emirates A380 on its way to Dubai

... and the Korean 747

Both photos taken from onboard Thésée

Tuesday 8th October... Another day, another destination. Anzio this time. Sunny, calm, just a touch of swell (until we got there!), nice views and 9 knots of wind.... what more could you ask for?

Tanker at anchor, half way there

Dean hoping for a bit more wind

Still trying to catch anything

We hadn't really decided which marina we would go in, because we were hoping to anchor. But the swell was pretty rough in the bay and there was no way we could have got ashore. The marina at Anzio is inside the harbour and the entrance is very well known for its shifting sandbanks, but at Dean's persistence we chose to give it a go. We were quite apprehensive about finding our way in, but having done our research it was pretty straightforward as long as you give the breakwater a good clearance. The least depth we registered was 2.5 metres. A bit hair-raising but not the worst we've ever had by a long way. The harbour staff were very good and attentive. Cost is average but we're on the quayside, the place is buzzing, and the town is real nice from what we've seen. Just need to get some free wifi now.