At last...Greece

At last...Greece

Saturday 18th September... Linda - It's been a long while coming, that wait for Greece. It was early last year that we had planned to come here, and then we suddenly got locked down in Gaeta, Italy, and all plans went to ruin. When we were set free in June 2020 international borders were still closed and so we toured the Aeolian Islands in Italy and then ended up in Sicily. 

Better late than never, we can now settle in and enjoy our time in Greece. It's been a hectic and stressful couple of weeks, crossing from Croatia to Italy, and then Italy to Greece, so time now for some simple cruising we hope. 

Last night's anchorage in Corfu was super, really protected and peaceful. We both slept very well all night long which makes a change from being up in the early hours checking weather. Saying that, I woke at 7am and caught the sunrise.  I have to say that it was only yesterday morning that we realised that Greece is yet one more hour ahead. Good job we noticed or we would have missed our Covid test appointment! So that means we are two hours ahead of current UK time (3 hours ahead of GMT).

Such a peaceful morning 

There was no rush to move on today so we left it until 11am to cross the 9 miles to the Greek mainland. Our chosen destination.... Ormiskos Valtou ( Levitatsa). I shall never be able to remember these names and have to keep checking our log book. It's a nature reserve to the north west of Igoumenitsa and we are tucked right into the inner bay. It's very lovely and reminds us very much of Newtown Creek on the Isle of Wight. Birds, jumping fish, and cows on the waters edge. No seal yet though!

Fish farm at the entrance to the nature reserve

Looks like a small taverna over there

Close up fish farm

View from the anchored Thesee looking north

Looking east

Cows in the corner 

We are the blue dot on Google maps

After arrival we ate lunch, which was yesterday's sandwiches that we carried all the way around Corfu town! Then an extremely relaxing afternoon reading for Dean, and puzzle booking for me. We celebrated our arrival in Greece with a curry for dinner along with a glass of Italian Cab Sav. Yes not quite authentic but we really enjoyed it as we hardly ever get to eat curry these days.

A rare curry treat for dinner

Sunday 19th September... Linda - No photos today as not much happened and we didn't leave the boat. There's not anywhere suitable to land the dinghy which is a shame because we know there are pathways on the land and nice beaches over the other side of the hill. There looks like an old delapidated landing quay but the cattle hang around it and we don't want to get into any fights with them. To keep busy Dean polished his miners lamp and gave the transom a good clean,  and I continued with my jigsaw. It's nice just to have a few days chilling out really after our hectic week. 

Monday 20th September... Linda - When I woke up Dean had started the generator and was already at the computer with instruction manuals out. He said the boat batteries had dropped to 9 volts overnight and for some reason our AIS transponder had gone on the blink too. I have no idea how he gets his head around all this stuff. It seems all is now working as it should.

Decisions, decisions. Stay or Go? This is the fourth day of wind from the south. It's not a massive amount but it just makes the sea choppy when you're running into it. Besides we are undecided about the best anchorage for the night. You can't really get totally out of the wind but you can get out of the swell, so it's a matter of calculating the most protected spots, plus you have to think about whether the seabed will be good holding for the anchor. There seems to be a lot of weed in the anchorages, and that's not good for anchoring. What we like is a nice sandy bottom!

In the end we gave up waiting for the wind to drop and decided to stay where we are. To try and keep ourselves amused we offloaded the dinghy and had a buzz about the bay and also the bay nextdoor. It's impossible to land anywhere and as we approached the only slightly possible place we were shooed off by a half naked bloke who looked like he was living in shack. 

Nope, can't land here

These poor animals are half starved

During the dinghy run

Wow, nice and sheltered here, but deep

Tonight we ate dinner late as I made a lasagne and it was yummy. We noticed the full moon outside and decided to light up our Owl and Pussycat lamp and take a photo of both!

Thanks Ang for the cute lamp, we love it

Tuesday 21st September... Linda - Early departure today, we were on a mission. But first the batteries had gone down very low again overnight so Dean started the engine about 7.20am in preparation for departure. It was only a 10 mile hop down the coast to Sivota or otherwise known as Sivota Mourtos (so as not to get confused with Sivota on Lefkada Island). 

The obligatory (Corfu to Igoumenitsa) ferry getting in our way as we left our anchorage of three days. We departed early as we didn't know what to expect at Sivota and we have some wind coming through tomorrow and need shelter. So if Sivota was no good then we still had time to carry on towards Preveza during the day to find an alternative suitable anchorage. 

Always something wanting the same sea space as us

The lighthouse on Sivota Island

...and caves on the south side

There are three large islands off the town. We headed round to the south of everything to an anchorage known as End or Fourth bay as the wind tomorrow is from North West and there are gusts of 30 knots expected. When we arrived there was only one other boat, and although a small anchorage we were able to drop the anchor and reverse to tie two lines ashore in what we think is a good spot. It was quite close to the swimming area buoys, but we were 90% happy with the spot.  There's a sand bar that runs between 3rd and 4th bay if you like. Tourists can walk along the sandbar (leading to another island) which seems to be about half a metre deep, and they did, it looked quite amusing. No sooner as we had settled down and watched everyone walk the sandbar, when a huge black cloud came over and we had a thunderstorm for about one hour. During which all the tourists plodded back across the sandbar to the mainland. 

Watching everyone wade to the island

Looking eastwards from the anchorage.... nice

but a big black cloud looming

During the storm, everyone waded back to shore

So the storm passed, we had some lunch, Dean fed some bread to the hundreds of fish, and then we went ashore for a look about and to visit the Port Police to get our Transit Log stamped. The Officer was very nice and we had all the things he asked to see. The usual photocopying everything scenario went on. He asked a few questions and stamped us in, proceeding to tell us he would also stamp us out for tomorrow but we could leave whenever we wanted. What a nice man. 

Feeding the fish from the side of the boat

Up on the road into town. Thesee down there to the right of the bush.

Gorgeous pink flowers

...and orange ones

Just arriving in the town after 15 minute walk

We easily found the Port Police office aka Hellenic Coast Guard

Now this is starting to feel like Greece

Wooden bicycles on the marina quay

Me on the marina quay

Looking over to town quay, very quaint

Neptune woz here

Never tried it, but always a first time

Sailing ship monument

This mommy cat brought her kittens half a buttered bread roll

Beer and crisps time on the quay

We watched a number of boats reversing into the quay

On our way back we found this train flowerbox

On top of the hill looking south

Nearly back to the boat

Shopping never used to take us to such nice places

Now back to Thesee, we have some new neighbours

Wednesday 22nd September... Linda - So it was a day spent on the boat as the wind built throughout the day. It's currently 9pm here and we still have a few hours left before it calms down. It's not too bad, the boat is steady, and we are protected from the worst of it. Dean sat outside reading for most of the day, and I stayed inside finishing off my jigsaw. Somehow my jigsaw has 7 pieces missing as opposed to 2 pieces missing last time. Wierd. Some boats left and more arrived during the day. Tonight we have 4 immediate neighbours all tied up to shore like us.

The morning started calmly

Dean was up early, I was still in bed

Checking the lines ashore

Thursday 23rd September... Linda - The windy night passed without incident. This morning there was just a strong breeze left to blow itself out. All our neighbours left this morning and two daytripper boats anchored very close to us. It's a worry sometimes in case they drop their anchor across our chain. In fact, two of last night's neighbours had that very scenario this morning with each other. The first boat leaving raised his anchor along with his neighbour's chain. Fortunately they managed to sort it out.

The day tripper boats don't stay too long as the routine is usually drop anchor, passengers jump of the boat into the sea for a swim, everyone gets back on board, then they leave for the next anchorage and swim. Today, not very many people were interested in swimming as it was still a little choppy, and most of the passengers just sat on the boat looking very bored.  We waited until both tripper boats had left then we went ashore, intending to walk into the town again via the two small bays inbetween.  We did get to the two bays but both were dead ends with exclusive holiday villas, apartments, and hotels. So it was a case of backwards and forwards up and down the hills. Mind you, the whole place is just beautiful so we didn't mind too much and we like to have a mooch about. And we did comment to each other that anyone who had booked to come on holiday here would not be disappointed. 

Holiday apartments

Pathways through the apartments grounds

Their swimming pool, lovely

...and again

Pink as pink can be

The first bay we arrived at

and the first dead end before doing an about turn

So onwards back up the hill we passed a holiday complex. One of the flags flying said it was the Swedish Olympic Village. 

Then further on to bay number two we found a snake in the grass (OK, in the flowers). The beach was lovely and there's a pontoon for boats too. On the other hand we didn't fancy the beach bar, so back up the hill and onwards into town for a drink. No cider but they did have Sangria! So I had one. It was my lucky day but for Dean no draft beer at this bar. 

It's a big one

Wow, very nice beach

Sangria and crisps time

After refreshments, a little more shopping and then a walk round the back streets took us up the main road where there were even more shops, bars, and facilities, even a medical centre for Covid tests. Dean said the main street felt like being in Mexico, and I agreed although for me it felt like the Wild West (although it was nothing like it) 😄. We passed the litte picturesque church. It's impossible to read any words in Greek, so I just looked it up and it's called Saint Nicholas Orthodox Church. Everything here in Greece seems to be to do with Saint Nicholas.

I found this next photo online. We are anchored in the light blue bay on the left hand side of this photo. The bays we walked to today are in the centre of the photo. Just missing off the bottom of the photo is the town, the town quay, and main marina. In the background top right is the southern coast of Corfu.

Sivota Mourtos

Friday 24th September... Linda - Time to leave our lovely anchorage and move further south down the coast to Parga. The journey was very pleasant and the coastline very beautiful with green hills. It reminded me a lot of travelling down the southern coast of Italy (on the Tyrrhenian sea side).

At Parga, the only option is anchoring.. It's a bit rolly, but ok. Parga is a very busy holiday destination and we are anchored in the large sandy bay. Around the headland is the lovely town. We went ashore for the afternoon to the castle, and once our friends Phil and Cristina (on Bora La) arrived we took the water taxi into town for dinner. It was a super evening and I even enjoyed the food! Lamb shank and only 11 euros.

Photos here..

En-route to Parga

Going to check the anchor on arrival

Views east

Venetian castle of Parga

Looking west

Looking north

Just landed on the beach

Small chapel with unusual bell tower

A walk along the beach towards the town

Thésée in the bay

Looking down from the castle towards the town

King of the Castle

Fantastic views

Today's beer and crisps (nuts)

Quaint restaurants everywhere

Here comes Bora La

Celebrating being together once again

Note: we have tablecloth

Saturday 25th September... Linda - The four of us took a long walk around the bay and into the town for breakfast. Unfortunately, what was advertised on a restaurant menu as English Breakfast actually turned out to be this...

Eggs, spam, feta cheese, toms, cucumber, olives, and kidney beans

Disappointed, but it was ok and the old family grandad serving us was very nice, so we didn't mind too much. Then we walked into town and along the seafront. There are sooooooooo many restauarants etc it's hard to imagine how they all survive.

Church in the town

The far end beach

Very nice hotel here

...with almost a tropical garden

Tourist train coming

Elevenses, Dean & Phil have a baklava

Heading back after a good look around, next the castle

Oh that delightful view again

We had a few hours rest this afternoon, then Phil and Cris picked us up again and we all went to a nearby beach bar for a drinks and a light snack. Another lovely day making the Adventures of Thésée. 

Sunday 26th September... Linda - Onwards we progress down the coast 30 miles to Preveza. A pretty uneventful journey. Preveza lies at the entrance to the Gulf of Amvrakia (in Greek Amvrakikos Kolpos). At the entrance to the gulf there are a lot of shallows and so a deep channel has been made marked by red and green navigation markers. It's been ages since we've seen these sort of markers, used a lot in the UK. 

This first photo we took this morning before departing Parga. It's a photo of our anchor watch app on the Ipad. The coloured lines show our track whilst at swinging around at anchor for two days. The large red circle is set so that should the anchor drag outside the circle an alarm is activated to alert us. We use it all the time for peace of mind.

Now onto today's photos, not many....

Ship at anchor outside Preveza

It's the Alanda Star

A yacht leaving the dredged channel as we enter

Here we are at the start of the entrance channel

Passing the three large boatyards at Preveza

Looking over to the boats on Town Quay

So along with Bora La, we both went to the anchorage just north of Preveza marina. We'll probably stay a couple of nights as we need to get our Transit Log stamped tomorrow.  I've been feeling a little dogdy today, maybe all that walking yesterday. I think an early night for me.

Monday 27th September... Linda - A day in Preveza town started with a visit to the Hellenic Coastguard (aka Port Police) to get our Transit Log stamped. We're kind of getting the hang of this now, and although it seems a bit daunting the officers have been very pleasant and welcoming so far. 

Next was a walk along the town quay (stopping at every chandlery shop) and a coffee break along the way. There are tons of eateries on the quayside, even Elvis doing fast food, yikes!

Is it really you Elvis?

Town quay (the quiet end)

Next was a walk along the next road back where all the souvenir and quirky shops are. 

A bit of browsing

Side streets

Church of St John

Our final stop was a look around the marina. Phil and Cris decided to take Bora La into the marina for one night, but we stayed at anchor. This evening we all went for dinner again and by chance we found a wonderful authentic restaurant advertising Traditional Roast on the Spit. Mmmm yes please that'll do nicely. 

This cat eyeing up a pigeon for dinner

Kiddies murals

We were a little early before opening time, but they let us sit down and browse the menu. The place is called Alatopipero (meaning Salt & Pepper). It's a fabulous family run restaurant with dad cooking the lamb, pork, and chicken on the Spit, son was the waiter, and we think mum in the background cooking up what they call Mammas Appetizers. The waiter son was so good with us, we asked about the homemade wine and he fetched his camera to show us a photo of the grapes in his truck and a video of the grapes being squeezed. 

Cris and I decided on the Red wine and when it came it was in a metal jug along with small glasses. So unique and such a surprise. Both us girls ordered lamb from the Spit. Our plates had so much lamb on them it was a struggle to eat it all, and I had to leave some. Unheard of for me to leave lamb.

First customers at Alatopipero

Greek beer for Phil and Dean

Quirky red wine for Cris and I

We sat in amongst the flowers

Nice tablecloths

More rustic settings

...and here

The Spit Roast on the left

Close up

What's on the menu?

During the evening's conversation it emerged that Phil could recite the Greek alphabet!  I suggested that he recite it to the waiter, which he did, and got a thumbs up for being correct. Clever Phil.

Before we left the waiter gave us a map of the local area and proceeded to tell us all about the places to visit and some history. What a shame we don't have a car and a bit more time. The evening was just so good. We award at 10 out of 10 to Alatopipero.

Tuesday 28th September... Linda - So I took a great photo this morning. There was a dark cloudy sky with just a small break where the sunrays were coming through. 

We didn't do a lot today. But Dean did spent a lot of his pocket money in the Chandlery, and Phil & Cris came over later for dinner. Tomorrow a big day, we negotiate the Lefkada canal.

The next blog post will be called 'Islands of the Inland Sea'