Thursday 3rd August...
Linda - Decisions, Decisions. Should we stay or should we go? Tilos is very nice, but we're not sure there's enough to keep us occupied for more than a day or two. We're at anchor and we're fine, but it is quite open and breezy. Not the kind of place you really just want to be hanging around doing nothing.
I suggested we tie to shore in one of the small bays, but Dean pointed out that the boats were rolling a lot when the ferries came in and out, plus the changing wind directions throughout the day. What to do? Dean suggested we move on up to the next 'Nisos'. I gave it about 5 minutes thought and then agreed we should move on. So off we went heading to Nisos Nisyros. How's that for a tongue-twister? Can you say that three times fast as you can?
It was just a three hour, 17 miles trip. Not a single boat to be seen for miles and miles, except this cargo ship which of course was coming at us with a CPA of just 200 feet! Do you remember what I said CPA stands for? We must always give way to commercial vessels, and who would want to risk passing close to this beast? Anyway, we made an early decision to change our course by 20 degrees so that we would pass behind it. The rules state if you are changing course to avoid a vessel make sure you make a big change of course, so that the other vessel can see you've made a meaningful decision to avoid. 20 degrees is just fine.
...and the cargo ship passes in front of us at about half a mile off
We approached Nisyros about 10.30am, it looked much greener than the other islands of late. In fact Nisyros is just one big volcano. Wow! The myth says that the God Poseidon was mad at the giant Polyvotis, so Poseidon cut off part of Kos with his trident and threw it at Polyvotis, crushing the giant underneath it. Thus Nisyros was formed and every time Polyvotis breathes from the island's underworld his breath is sent from under the volcano.
Wow, that Poseidon is some mean Greek God.
Approaching Nisyros from the south
Rounding the north east corner.
Another island in the background.
So, we arrived in the small Port of Palon about 11am. The entrance is very very shallow and narrow. But we've previously tackled another entrance similar to this in the past, and it was night time then too! We took it slowly and the least depth we saw was 2.1 metres. Thesee's draft is 1.8 metres, so that leaves 30 centimetres to spare. Yikes. All was well and inside it get's a little deeper.
Dean did a wonderful job dropping anchor and reversing stern to the quay. A true professional. No lazy lines here. A nice man from another boat appeared and took our lines. The tiny town and port is delightful. We went out straight away for a drink and a bite to eat, plus we've booked a hire car for tomorrow to sightsee the island. How exciting!
Volcanic rocks make up the breakwater
Unique plant pots
Blue Thesee in the port
This is the narrow entrance we came through
Thesee again
The south quay
Volcanic beach next door
Fishermen unravelling their fishing nets
This cheeky cat steals half a fish
That's a hell of a net
The greenery is amazing
Beach again
Will Dean take heed of this message?
The sign reads 'You are now entering a stress free zone'
Thesee on the left
Quintessential Greece
And guess what? Tonight there is live music from Crete in the square. Cretan music. If we can manage to stay awake until 9pm we'll pop along with our deck chairs and a bottle of wine.
Friday 4th August....
Linda - It was quite enjoyable listening to the live Cretan music last night, but even more enjoyable watching the ladies showing off their Greek dance routines. It was very authentic Greece, so much so that I almost felt like I was at a Greek wedding. No pictures though as they don't turn out very well in the dark.
Moving on to today's car hire sightseeing outing around the island.
All I can say is 'HOW MANY PHOTOS?'
Here goes...
Location 1 - The Stefanos and Polyvotis craters
We had the place to ourselves.... early birds
Refreshments - Water
Going down
Can you see me?
Gases rising here
Sulphur
Hot in the hotspot
Location 2 - Nikia hilltop village and Church
Refresheshments - Orange Juice and Peach cake
Walking up to the Church
Smallest ampitheatre I've ever seen
Nikia
Wobble car
In the bell tower
Passing the marina on way to next stop
Blue Thesee down there
Location 3 - Mandraki, the main town on Nisyros
Refreshments - Rum Punch, Fruit Punch, Tuna wrap and chips
Location 4 - Mandraki - The monastery area
Refreshments - Coke, Beer, Ice cream
I want want want a gate like this
Not sure about this Rich Tea biscuit in my ice-cream
Saturday 5th August...
Linda - This morning we had a lovely four hour sail across to Kos, most of it with the cruising chute.
For a while a boat was coming right towards us. We were sailing and they motoring, so the rules are motor gives way to sail. They kept coming and coming on the same course. When they were only one mile off us Dean had to call them up to ask which side they were going to pass us. They replied they would pass port to port (which is the correct manoevre), and they then changed course to miss us. It's a shame they didn't do it sooner.
As they passed us
After pasisng us they turned back on their course
This was the second boat of the day that we were on a collision course for. I can't believe it, there's absolutely no boats for miles and miles and the only two we came across were both on a direct path with us.
Approaching the corner of Kos
Looking back at Nisyros and the huge crater it left
Coastguard station in Kos
Big Greek flag painted on the rocks
The resorts look very nice
Anchored off the castle in Kos town
It's not a good anchorage, very open and busy with passing boats and wash. Tomorrow we'll be on the move early from this place.
Sunday 6th August...
Linda - Not too bad a night at anchor. It was a bit rolly but I can put up with that as long as there's no wind and we aren't too close to another boat.
Fairly calm at 6am this morning
Clouds over the high ground
Just an early short 8 mile hop across to the next island Pserimos. We arrived about 9am, a bit too early really as the overnighters hadn't departed yet. The anchorage in Pserimos was packed with about 30 boats mostly charter boats, however we were able to find a spot. There's nothing here on the land, only goats. As far as I know there are no inhabitants, so it's boring to look at. So boring in fact that I obviously wasn't inspired to take any photos. Will try and get some in the morning before we move on.
Monday 7th August...
Linda - Lovely and calm night and morning in Pserimos anchorage. I forgot to take photos before we left at 8.15am on the dot as planned. Along with Impavidus (who were in another anchorage) and Eternite (who were in our anchorage) we were all on a mission to get to Kalymnos by 10.15am. You see, there are big winds coming tomorrow for a number of days and Kalymnos is the safest place to be moored stern to against the quay in a well protected harbour.
Dean and I love love love this island, it feels like home to us. Last year we spent almost two weeks here on and off before we checked out of Greece and went to Turkey. The island has so much to offer, the only thing missing is there's no Lidl 😏. Kalymnos is famous for its sponges, which you can find for sale on every street corner for a pricely sum I might add.
Sponges galore
We've arrived here a day before the winds start. On these occasions we always try to arrive a day early to ensure we get a berth in good time. Don't like leaving it until the last minute. Plus it's so inexpensive on this quay, in fact we have paid only 50 euros for 5 days! We've paid more than double that for just one night in some marinas in the past.
After we'd settled in we all went off to get our Transit Logs stamped by the Hellenic Coastguard. We can't stamp out until we know when we'll be leaving. Then it was off to the Cosmote phone shop to get an unlimited data sim card for 12 euros per month. Next stop a nice friendly cafe where they served us BLT sandwiches and chocolate croissants. What's not to like?
Near the town square
Fabulous buildings and bell tower
Gold curtained entrance
Side street restaurants
Our new sim card that fits into our existingTurkcell mifi
This afternoon after a chill out we got ready and all went out for dinner. The restaurant only being about 50 metres from Thesee. It was a good night. I'll sleep well tonight for sure.
The next blog post will be called 'Crazy about Kalymnos'
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