Friday, 3 May 2024

We're in the big blue briny

Thursday 2nd May...
Linda - Up at 6am to make sure we were ready and prepared for our 8.30am launch. Dean forced himself to dump his very old trainers, very old crocs, and very old cap before we left. It was quite traumatic, he hates to get rid of anything, especially if they are not even 10 years old yet 😏

Bye bye workwear 

Last job before launching, raising our Welsh flag on the spreader


We used to have a Black Country flag. Only once has anyone enquired what it was. Let's see if this Welsh one gets any attention. 

The boatyard staff were on time at 8.30am and collected Thesee with precision, safely transporting him down to the water's edge. Traumatic situation number 2 for Dean. 


Almost ready for the lift


The local goat herd came to see us off


A nice day for it


Dean tries to keep calm as he follows Thesee


Going in


So that was it. Thesee was relaunched and we re-boarded him and headed for one of the boatyard buoys so that we could put the sails back on. We just about managed to get the small staysail back on, but it was just too windy and neither of us wanted to attempt the big genoa or mainsail. Dean suggested we motor just across the small inlet to a better protected bay off the little island of Nisos Archangelos. We know it's a good anchorage there as many people use it. 

On arrival there was only one other boat, so we picked up a buoy and waited. But the wind never stopped and so we made the decision to stay on the buoy overnight. Tomorrow looks less windy. We'll try to put the two big sails on tomorrow if all goes to plan.

Dean monitoring the gadgets as we cross to Nisos Archangelos


Friday 3rd May...
Linda - We're happy to report a very successful day. Up with the lark as the mornings seem to have a bit of a lull from the wind, by 10am not only had we managed to refit the big genoa, but we had also fitted the mainsail as well. The mainsail takes quite a while to fit because we first have to fit the lazy bag, then as we hoist the sail we need to fit the 5 batons that go through pockets on the sail, and also add the 3 reefing lines. Fortunately the conditions were kind to us and we didn't have any problem whatsoever. In fact it was probably the easiest time we have ever fitted the sails.  

So this made us very happy. Here's some photos of the mainsail fitted and ready to drop into the lazy bag. You can see the reefing lines and also the batons that fit horizontally in the sail.











We grabbed a coffee, unhooked ourselves from the buoy, and headed south for about an hour to Lakki marina for a number of free days on the quayside (included with our boatyard contract). The weather's still quite iffy at the moment, so we'll chill out here for about a week or so.

In Greece it's Easter Weekend. They call it Pascha. We've been told there's going to be quite a lot of celebrating and fireworks. We didn't know about the celebrations so it's just coincidence that we are here. It's quite funny because when we were here last summer it was the 'Battle of Leros' 80th anniversary and we enjoyed those events too!

Even the local marching band were round and about practising for the Easter parade.


Garlands up in the main town

I think the yellow flag represents the 
Greek Orthodox Church

Local marching band practise


Saturday 4th May...
Linda - Our first free day to do whatever we please. There was quite a lot of surge in the marina because the wind is still coming from the west at the moment. 

We recognised the boat next door but one to us as it had been in the same boatyard. It was a biggie, a Dufour 61 (61 foot).The skipper was alone and trying to refit his mainsail (like we had done yesterday). There was no way in a million years he would have been able to do this alone. Dean clocked what was going on and offered to help. 

Dean assessing the situation

It was a different kind of mainsail to ours. This one had an inmast furler, which means of course the sail furls (rolls) away into the mast, unlike ours which we drop onto the boom into the lazy bag. 


The boat's skipper tying the clew of the sail to the boom
before they hoist the sail to the the top

It took quite a while because the sail kept getting creased as it was being fed into the hoisting slot, but eventually all was complete and they were able to furl it in a jiffy.  We sometimes admire this kind of set up because it's much easier to put the sail away than ours is. On the other hand it can become jammed when furling which brings its own issues. So there's good and bad in both types of set up I suppose. 

It was still quite early. We decided to walk to the Leros War Museum about 25 minutes away. We've been planning to visit since we were here last Autumn and never got around to it. 


A nice walk to get to the museum

Views looking out of the inlet




The museum is quite unique because it's actually in one of the wartime tunnels. Only 3 euros entrance fee too. 

At the entrance

Fighter planes and vehicles outside


This is a coat of the English Army in 1943



Radio equipment 


In the tunnels

It was about lunchtime when we finished and walked back into the town, ending up at our favourite little cafe where I can indulge in the best chocolate croissants. 

Later on a huge ferry came into port and loads of cars and people disembarked. They must all be here for their Easter celebrations. I tracked it on 'Vessel Finder', and found that it had come from Athens via a number of the islands in the Cyclades. 


The Blue Star ferry from Athens

Our free day was turning out to be very busy. Next job was to amend one of our canvas covers. This one covers our mainsail viewing window on the top of the sprayhood. We used to tuck the rear end of it under the solar panel on the sprayhood, but now we have removed the defunk solar panel the cover needed adjusting to stay in place. Dean bought two more catches, got the sewing machine out, and made new fittings. So all is good again now. 





Tonight we went out for dinner at El Greco restaurant/cafe on the seafront. Our first time here and we weren't disappointed. The food and wine were just perfect with AMAZING chips and a lovely Greek salad. 


Sunday 5th May...
Linda - Well, apparently the Easter celebrations started at 10.30pm last night with fireworks at midnight. I never heard a single thing whilst I was slumbering and tucked up in bed. Dean said he heard the fireworks. But basically, we've missed out on the celebrations. Not too bothered about that really. 

This morning we went for a walk at 10am just to find out if the Church bells were pealing but.... NOTHING. The town was deserted. We did a little exploring along some back streets of town and found a new and very large Chandlery (closed today of course). 


Pretty flowers along the back streets

So we ended up back on the seafront near to the large proper marina. It's called Evros Marina. There's a LOT of boats stored ashore here including some whoppers. They have two travel hoists here, this one below is a BEAST. I think it can lift up to 160 tons. As a comparison, Thésée is 16 tons. This one wide enough to lift catamarans also. 

The BEAST


The cafe in the marina was open, so we called in. It's a bit pricey here, 8 euros for two coffees. We wanted a croissant but they only offered big breakfasts at 10 euros so we gave it a miss. 

On the way back looking across the bay we could see Thésée on the quayside. He's never hard to find having the big white seahorse on his bow. A bit too far away in this photo to pick out without a magnifying glass. 


Blue boat middle of the photo


Lakki town


Dean on the wifi in the marina cafe 


Looking back at Marina Evros

Not much movements on the water today, just one Charter boat arriving, which Dean helped to berth. No marina staff on duty today. We're watching the weather to see when we can get on the move again. Still quite iffy winds and direction at the moment.


Monday 6th May...
Linda - A pleasant day today pottering around. First we walked to find out if the bakery shop was open for crusty bread, but of course not because it's Easter Monday. We did get choccie croissants again at the cafe though. 

This afternoon it was time for Dean to emerge himself into the depths of the aft water tank (tank 2). The tank is under the bed in the port side aft cabin (aka Dean's workshop full of tools, gizmos, and spares). Hence, almost everything had to come out of there to reach the tank. 

The water pressure has been iffy since we arrived, stop, start, splutter etc, and our water level monitor has always been unreliable because of the set up inside the tank. So we wanted to make sure that it was in fact tank 2 that was empty and not just a dodgy gauge or some other issue.

Tank 2 showing empty on the monitor screen


Once Dean had gained access to the tank he looked inside and it was as he thought indeed empty. Inside the tank the water level is measured by three screws at different levels. Once the water goes below the top screw the screen monitor goes down to three quarters, and so on. But the screws always tend to go rusty and give off unreliable readings. Now the tank is empty Dean can reach inside through the hole with great difficulty and give the screws a bit of a clean. He can only just reach the screws with the whole of his arm inside the hole, meaning it's a bit of guess work. It's a horrible job, but now it's done and he said the tank looks clean at the bottom, so no murkyness or bits lurking around. 


The access hole into the tank. just about big enough for an arm!


Going in


Right in now, and feeling for the screws

Just need to get some access to fresh water now to fill up. 

We're keeping our eye on the weather forecast. We'll be starting our journey back across the Cyclades to the Greek mainland once the time is right. 


Tuesday 7th May...
Linda - Getting a bit short on jobs now. I caught Dean messing about with the sodium crystals in the water filter. When we fill up with water we always put it through this filter before it goes into the tanks. The crystals had all clogged up and stuck together, which is why you can see here he is trying to force it all out to unclog it.. 



One of the new seacocks has a tiny drip coming from it. That's another ongoing amount of tweaking to sort out that issue. The afternoon was free. Shops still shut around town today. We ended up in one of the bars we like on the seafront. They have APPLE CIDER! My favourite. Only they don't really know what it is if you ask for Cider, but fortunately they know us by now and just say 'Same as last time' 👍


Wednesday 8th May...
Linda - After all the Easter days off, the shops were open again and we were able to go on a big shopping stock-up. Our freezer was empty with just a loaf of bread in it, so we were pretty desperate for anything of any use food wise. 

At the shops we found they sell my favourite cider so we bought some and here's a photo. You can see why I was unable to explain what it was called yesterday. I can't pronounce it, or even begin to type it on my keyboard as it's Greek lettering. 

It's def apples anyway


Nice trees in the street, and Dean on the way back 
with the shopping piled up on the trolley


The only bit of Thesee TLC today was to affix a reflective film inside the sail locker hatch. Dean hopes that it will stop anyone being able to look inside the hatch, and also reflect the heat. Dean had a bit of a meltdown trying to start peeling the clear backing away from the reflective film, but I was there to save the day with my pair of tweezers. I have to admit it was tricky. 


Cutting the film to size


Now affixing the film to the hatch window


Thursday 9th May...
Linda - Oh, how to keep one-selves amused. We decided it was a good idea to take our bed sheets etc to the local laundry as we hope to leave here early next week. We soon came to realise that we didn't have another sheet to put on the bed. Then we remembered that we threw the spare sheet away before we left the boat last October. It was almost in tatters and definitely not repairable (again). But we had forgotten all of this, and so we set off on a mission to buy a new bed sheet. It's a good job that we decided to change the bed or we wouldn't have had to go without at some point. 

Anyway, after we dropped off the laundry at Dimitri's place we went on a mission to find a sheet shop. Amazingly we found two shops but then realised we didn't actually know the size that we wanted. Doh!

So back to the boat to double check measurements and then back to the sheet shop. They had a big choice and we found just what we wanted. It's a very pretty sheet with blue flowers, and will go with our duvet just fine. So all is good and we can sleep well tonight again.


New pretty sheet


Our duvet

Next stop was the pink coffee shop. We've been talking about trying it for a while. They have an absolute amazing choice of cakes, pastries, and ice-creams. Unfortunately my Ferrero Doughnut turned out to be very dry so I only ate half and we ate the other half later with cream on after dinner. 


My Ferrero Doughnut, and Dean's Baklava type cake




Gold cutlery and pink plates






We had breaded chicken with salad for dinner. A little while later we seemed to have attracted a feline friend who obviously had an impeccable sense of smell. The little kitty parked himself right by our passarelle and lay in wait for left-overs. Unfortunately there were no left-overs, but it didn't deter him from checking us out. While we went to wash up he found his way along the passarrelle and was sitting quite happily right in our cockpit!






We're going out for dinner tomorrow night, so I'll have to bring him some chicken home. Little cutie. 


Friday 10th May....
Linda - Happy Anniversary to us! 
Would you believe a decade has flown by just like that. 

Dean kindly told me that a 10th Anniversary is Tin or Aluminium. The internet told me to perhaps expect a set of designer storage containers. Dean obviously didn't do that research. Our gift to ourselves was in fact an aluminium cleat and a tin of kidney beans.

Anniversary gift 👍


We're hoping to be on the move Monday or Tuesday. There's a LOAD of wind and weather out in the Cyclades all over this weekend, which is why we're holding fire on our departure at the moment. Trying to find things to do in the meantime. We went to the brand new large store which sells boaty and home improvement kinds of stuff, and managed to find a few things to buy. One in fact was very handy, a roll of self-adhesive kitchen trim that can be ironed on to surfaces. When we got back, Dean used it to replace the dodgy edging that we have around the inside of the coach roof windows. It seems to have done the job. We just hope it doesn't shrink like the other stuff did.


Affixing the trim to the window edges


Job done.... Nice


Tonight we got all dressed up and went out to celebrate our 10 years of happiness together, at our favourite restaurant, El Greco 😍




As promised, I saved some chicken for the cute kitten from last night. As we walked back kitty was no-where to be seen. But we had to laugh as we reached Thesee, kitty was sitting waiting for us by the passarrelle. All's well that ends well. 


Saturday 11th May...
Linda - We seem to have been in Leros for so long, it's feeling like a second home. And here in Lakki (the main town) we've walked most of the streets a number of times. Time to find an alternative walk to the shops. We took a small street leading up into the hills at the back of town, which lead us past a number of very old disintegrated cars. 







Following Google Maps, the road we should have been turning right at was actually not even there at all. In fact, I don't think there has ever been a road there. We carried on further up the hill and it became really quite pleasant. Some nice view down into the bay. It was funny as we came across the baker's van that goes around the island and have bought bread from him on a number of occasions. I think he must have been shocked to see us up in the middle of nowhere. 














Finding our way down towards the shops we passed a hospital. Never even knew it was there. A nice Church, a school, and a new supermarket too. 










We bought some obvious last minute essentials for our upcoming crossing to mainland Greece. Dark Rum, Famous Grouse, Box of Merlot, Biscuits, Cakes, Crusty Bread, Salad Cream, Crisps. 




And an added bonus, we bought two 10 litre containers that fit under the seat nicely. Filled them both with fresh water as our backup. We've been on about doing this all week. 




It's looking good for a Monday departure westwards to a small island called Levitha. It's about 23 miles away so not a massive journey for the first of the season. They have a number of sheltered buoys, so fingers crossed we will be able to spend a night there before carrying on. 


Sunday 12th May....
Linda - Finalising the pre-departure jobs, Dean filled up Thesee's two water tanks (235 litres per tank). At some times of the year the water here is brackish (salty), but at the moment it seems OK. Well whatever it is at the moment, we have two full tanks of it now. 

Water going through the filters and then into our tanks

It takes quite a while to fill our water tanks. Whilst this was going on, Dean went to help our new neighour to hoist his genoa. It was a bit tricky because it's still quite windy here, and there was a couple of issues to sort out too.

Dean and the neighbour's genoa

It's been quite a relaxing Sunday overall, with a little walk this afternoon to fill up two more bottles of fresh water, and then a visit to the bar for beer and cider.


Dean at the water machine

So, tomorrow, fingers crossed, we shall be saying bye bye to Leros and hello to Levitha. We think there is no internet connection in Levitha so I may not be able to do any blogging tomorrow. Tuesday we should reach Amorgas so will catch up then. BTW it will be a new blog post title. Bye bye for now xx
















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