Monday, 13 July 2020

The Aeolian Islands - Lipari, Vulcano


Sunday 12th July....DEAN -  Most days we hold the radio net. That is we let the others know we will call on the radio at say 9am VHF channel 72. Here we can discuss our next move any issues, weather, etc etc. Today Bora La and Thesee decided we should move to the island of Lipari. Just because we can I suppose.

 We have to sail around this rock

 Other boats arrive for the night at the peaceful anchorage

 Linda wants me to row ashore

 Weird things on the beach


In the end Bora La decided to move on to the next anchorage as there was a better signal there for skype etc. we decided to stay. So after even more hull scrubbing we took Saffy ashore for evening walkies...me rowing!

 Nice sunset on the way back



I can feel a single malt coming on


Monday 13th July... LINDA - A hot night and Saffy wouldn't settle which ended up with her sleeping outside in the cockpit whilst Dean slept on the floor next to her. She's got a bit of a cough too so it wasn't a good night for her really. This morning we still managed to row ashore. The beach at the northern end of the bay this time, but it was still very rocky and not really suitable for walkies, but we all did our best.

A super calm morning here on the South West coast of Lipari

Serenity

We think that this was the beach bar that we expected to find. No drinks here today, and not for many years it would appear. Lunchtime we moved on a mile and half to the anchorage on the very south of Lipari called Cala Puntazza where all four of us joined forces once again. The beach is better and so is the view.

Out of beer

 
Some of the rocks and caves here are incredible though 

Approaching the anchorage at Cala Puntazza
This rock stands upright all on it's own just off the coast


Tuesday 14th July... LINDA - We all had different ideas of where to go today for protection and various anchorages were tried out by us all. In the end three boats ended up on the west side of Vulcano in a small inlet, and we went north of the headland at Lipari, just off the beach at Canneto. The wind was up a bit during the afternoon, but a calm night followed so we were all comfortable. The weather has been so good lately it's kind of annoying when you have to start finding the best shelter again. Before bedtime Dean was outside having a drink with his hurricane lamp and he saw Stromboli light up in the distance. Wow... I missed it, was already in bed.

Early morning walkies whilst the beach was still shaded
by this craggy hilltop

Passing the volcano on Vulcano

Now back in Lipari and checking out the anchorages

Looks very nice here

This is Canneto town this evening

Peeking in the Church as usual

Wednesday 15th July... LINDA - So back to Lipari town this morning at 9am and got an anchorage spot just as someone was leaving. Went ashore with Saffy to have a look around. It's really nice, lots of shops and cafes and a big supermarket. Some big wash from the ferries but it soon passes. 

This is Canneto before we left this morning
 
A beautiful side alley in Lipari

The main street Lipari

Big neighbours tonight

It's very stormy this evening so it could be a long night. Note: always park next to someone with a taller mast during a lightening storm. The others round in the anchorage on the south of the island have just seen a waterspout!!

Gulp!



Thursday 16th July....Dean  Up early today 04.30 as the anchor alarm went off. All was good and it was just a wind gust stretching the chain out a little. Stay up for an hour to make sure everything is OK then back to bed. We were just having coffee later and Impavidus sailed past. They had been up most the night and where looking for a decent anchorage. As it was we were rocking and rolling with the ferry swell so they didn't stay.
Shortly afterwards Eternete turned up, they stayed a few hours and met us for coffee in town before heading off to join Impavidus.We had a nice walk about town down by the fisherman's quay while walking Saffy and the town is still quite nice.

Sunrise 04.30

 View from the castle


Mayor's house I think

 Overlooking the anchorage


 
 Mayor's garden

Part of the castle

Another part 

Big brick thing that says Brexit!
  
More gardens

Nice restaurant that Linda found 

 

 Nice view 

Newspaper dress and hat in a shop window


There are lots of different shops here and the place seems quite vibrant. Unfortunately the shopkeepers don't seem bothered to help you which is strange given the circumstances. And no one does printer cartridges!

 Novel beer pump


 And the pub


Just after we got back to the boat we had a few people join us in the anchorage area. One was a 45 meters Turkish style wooden boat. He anchored quite close as did a few others. We took Saffy for her evening walk and decided to go to the fisherman's quay. Bad mistake. There were a group of kids that wanted to help with the dinghy and look after it for us... for a fee I assume. I wouldn't mind but their attitude was very rude and threatening. Which was a shame for the twat in the wooden boat as I made him move after an argument and threatening him with the fog horn every half hour all night. He is a professional Captain with paying guests. Saffy knows more about the col regs than he does!

 Using my best Italian


Threatening with Linda's knickers and my smelly shorts

He eventually and reluctantly moved back a little, no day shape displayed, no anchor light until after 9pm when it was pitch dark. Good news though, my Italian seems to be improving each day, when I shouted to the captain in Italian he knew straight away what I meant. Fu$*&ng moron move back! seems to work fine!


Friday 17th July.... LINDA - On to Isola di Vulcano today and managed to squeeze ourselves into a space in the anchorage. Again, it's quite deep and really there's only about room for 12 boats to anchor in less than about 15 metres. Soon after we arrived one of our neighbours left and so we repositioned ourselves in a better fashion. Caroline had told us there was a small launderette here so we took two bags of washing ashore on a mission. The place is lovely, really buzzing but small and friendly, nice bars, shops and views. The first thing we came across was the mud baths. What a shame they seem to have been closed down. Someone told us it was for political reasons but i can't imagine why?


Looking through the fence to the mud baths

A bit closer look... it's bubbling

A super drink of orange and a lunch snack the Gecko Bar

Big rocks everywhere....looks like 'Close Encounters'

Here's the volcano

.... and the smoky ferries

After the laundry, chandlery, and small supermarket we headed back to the boat for a rest. Later on we met up with the gang who were anchored in the bay on the west side of the island.... but only a five minute walk away. A few drinks followed and a catch up.....dark when we got back to Thesee.....oops

Saturday 18th July... LINDA - On a mission today, up at 5am, ashore at 6am, for a ramble up the volcano. We left Saffy on the boat fast asleep. We wouldn't normally leave her on the boat at anchor but it was calm and the forecast fine.

Gorgeous residence on the way to the climb start

Here we are at the start of the climb to the crater
It says 'extreme danger of intoxication'...... nice

This way to the crater
The only way is up....

Lots of burnt trees at the beginning

Getting higher

Now at the rubbly bit

Looking back at the rainbow to the west

Now at the sandy bit.... 
it was so fine, just like talcum powder underfoot

Good job we have our hiking boots on

Thesee down there in the anchorage

We made it to the smoking crater

Best not go over there me thinks...
I don't want to get intoxicated 😀

Wonderful views to all the islands...
Lipari, Panarea, Stromboli, Salina, and more

Looking down into the crater.... not much to see
but a great experience

Now on the way down again
a change in rockface

Time to ponder our surroundings

 Another view

And another
  
9am we arrive back at the boat
and Saffy is still in bed asleep!!

Cactus flowers later on, on Saffy's walk

So tomorrow we think we shall move on to Sicily...... we must try and call it Sicilia so that people understand us. We're just about done here in the Aeolian Islands and it has all been quite an experience. And yes we smashed our anchoring record. So far tonight will be our 18th consecutive day at anchor. Not bad that. 








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