Morning walkies on the wonderful sandy beach
Sword fishing boat
We saw a traditional sword fishing boat go past, A person spots the swordfish from on top of the tower. They use an extra long sword to catch the fish with!
Fabulous anchorage..
and wow, that water
and wow, that water
Landing party
Our car/dinghy
Saffy roaming on the beach
Oscar having a paddle
Looking for stones
En-route a 'spacecraft' changes course
and goes to our stern
We had a super sail across the 36 miles to the islands. It was noticeably busier on the water. There were light winds of about 8 knots apparant, so all three of us managed to fly the cruising chutes.
Eternite and Imapavidus
We passed the world famous volcano Stromboli on the way, and there were slight wisps of smoky sulphur rising from the top. This is the closest we've been so far.
Still hazy
Jagged rock formations everywhere
Our track for the day
Friday 3rd July... LINDA - So after arriving here in Cala Zimmari, Panatea, yesterday, and finding the anchorage very busy, we had to anchor a good way off in about 10 meters. The view ashore wasn't very pretty and we felt quite disappointed. It was a bit of a rolly night but in the morning it was quite calm and we got Saffy ashore quite early (because we never took her last night). Throughout the morning most of the boats started leaving and we were able to move (twice) further in. We've never anchored off an extinct volcano before and the sea bed is quite uneven, making it slightly problematic when it comes to anchoring. But we are happy with our space now. Bora La arrived this evening too, so all four of us are back together again. We don't really know how long we shall spend around these 7 Aeolian Islands, as always the weather is our boss.
They have ice-cream boats here too
So this evening we went ashore and walked for about 10 minutes along the little pathway towards the town. WOW, and double WOW....this place is just so unique and beautiful. So many pretty colourful flowers, scents, and views. Our spirits have been lifted. It's quite odd that on the Italian Mainland the views ashore were superb but going ashore has been a let down in most places. Panarea is just the opposite, it looks nothing but is in fact super. It feels quite Greek or Arabic we think, so different from the mainland. There are no cars, and a taxi service (golf buggies) will transport you along the pathway into town for 10 euros. Dean was going to do another push ups session on the path but a golf buggy came at the same moment, so that will have to wait for now.
Saturday 4th July... LINDA - Up at 6am for no apparant reason and a good night's sleep, it was super calm on the water. After a short while a boat started coming around the anchorage, the guy holding up a tuna asking if we wanted to buy it! We had to decline but did wonder how much he was asking. Some other boats did buy some seafood though.
Tuna anyone??
Fresh fish delivery
Well the hydrofoil ferries do come and go between the islands, this one this morning was particularly close. Although they create wash it was quite a sight to see.
Yikes, how weird is that?
Tempted by last night's path walk we ventured abit further this morning and i had the camera with me this time.
Cactus flowers
Beautiful flowers in bloom
Claret & Blues
Rustic homes
Tiny doorways
Plant Pot Wall
More residences
Even a bar
Another home
...with hammocks
Helipad
Scents of Panarea
Museum Diffuso
Back down we go
Sunday 5th July... LINDA - Well yesterday evening about 8.30pm we had a squall come through. We had been expecting some wind gusts of about 25 knots so it wasn't a total surprise when it kicked off. Luckily we had walked Saffy and were back on board at the time. There was a boat that had anchored earlier in the day, and he was too close really and his tripping line was right at our stern which was kind of annoying. The skies were stormy and as the gusts were building all the anchored boats were sitting in different directions. Ours and our close neighbour's boat swung suddenly in opposite circles and almost collided, just missing each other by about 1 foot. Us and them were quick to get a fender at the ready but it wasn't needed in the end. The rain started pouring and the other boat immediately lifted their anchor and moved further out (which is what they should have done earlier). Anyway, they were now out of way.
At the same time Bora La wasn't happy being close to the shore and he also upped anchor and after about 20 minutes of searching in the dark found a better spot to anchor. It was quite hair-raising for them. Also some boats upped and left and others moved spaces. There were flashes of lightening all around us in the distance. About an hour later it had calmed down somewhat. Dean went to bed and i stayed up trying to keep busy and take my mind off it all. Then at midnight Dean got up and found me asleep on the sofa, when i was supposed to be keeping my eyes on everything. We did get some sleep during the night.
The weather forecast is unsettled until Tuesday which is why we are hiding in this cove at Cala Zimmari. The winds and swell are from the North West so it's the best place we can find.
So onto Sunday morning and we had a new neighbour, a huge superyacht called 'Planet Nine'. It's two years old and cost 85 million euros new. You can hire it for 650 thousand euro a week..... Bargain !
You even get a helicopter thrown in with the price
On our morning walkies we met the family from the yacht that nearly came to blows with us last night. Their boat is French registered, but the lady told us she was born in Sicily and she spoke perfect English. We had quite a good chat with them, sharing tips on wintering and how we all made it through lockdown.
It was a pretty calm evening and we went ashore with the gang to the little bar we found along the pretty pathway into town. A nice get-together to discuss last nights antics, and plan our next couple of days.
Monday 6th July.... LINDA - Day 3 of the unsettled weather brought a quite gusty 12 hours or so. Fortunately we were still pretty much protected by the small headland, but we could see a lot of white horses further out and it was a little unsettling. When it's like this i try not to sit and weather watch, so i closed the curtains to stop me looking at it all and got a jigsaw out. That always does the trick and keeps me amused. While we were walking Saffy in the morning we decided to take a look at the other end of the beach. There is a path there to an ruined early settlement from when god was a boy.
Looking down on the settlement
Looking into the bay
The anchorage filled up again and we thought it must be another Bank Holiday, but it wasn't. By the end of the day it was crowded. Dean had just a small job today which was fixing his glass bottom bucket. He made it himself a while ago and it's great for looking to check the anchor from the dinghy. Anyway, the glass bottom fell out of it the other day, whilst he was using it! Fortunately he caught it in time before it sank, so today was a repair job. Apart from that he sat and read his book.
Busy anchorage
....and more this way
Tuesday 7th July... LINDA - Early to bed last night so early to rise this morning. That meant we had plenty of time to decide whether to stay or go. We decided to go but the others decided to stay, as they were going on a bit of a ramble to the prehistoric ruins. (God's old village). On our minds was a trip across to Stromboli. The winds looked good and we left at 10 ish. It was only about a 20 mile trip around the back of Panarea and then the back of Stromboli and round into the anchorage. En route the sea was still rolly and the promised wind was less, so it made sailing rather slow and pointless. Still we were looking forward to seeing the 'backside' of Stromboli where the generations of lava flow has scarred the landscape. We weren't disappointed, and Stromboli even gave us our own private display about every 15 minutes puffing out clouds of black smoke. He even treated us to a rock tumbling down into the sea and making a big splash. We were about 2 miles offshore as there is a no entry zone on the best bits. I don't think i would have liked to get any closer anyway!
This is the 'backside' of Panatea on our journey
Stromboli here we come
You can see where the lava flow has scarred the landscape
Look on google maps and it's a great view too
There he blows, just for Thesee
Dean's enjoying the show
Me too
Approaching the anchorage on the North East
Passing this fairytale rock called Strombolicchio
Our dot on Vessel Finder website
Evening walk along the black sandy and rocky beach
Booze cart..... Yesss... Draft Rosé (closed Wednesdays)
Along the seafront
Very black sand here of course
Stromboli Saffy & Shadows
Another puff early this evening
The puff was in the last picture!
Coffee stop at the piazza
Church outside
Inside
View from the coffee stop
Whoops!
There are lots of people selling excursions to the volcano crater. You hire the gear and hike up to the top, or near.
Hiking map
It's quite green and lush near the bottom of the slope and some of the gardens are quite nice.
Yikes
Thursday 9th July....DEAN - We left the Stromboli anchorage at 10.30am in the end today, there was some debate between the four boats as the best time to leave. Some wanted to leave before dawn to see the volcano. Anyway we left at 10.30 in the end which is very civilised. We passed round the interesting side of Stromboli again, and this time heard it rumble also, but not much smoke puffing today.
Stromboli again
Here's some info we found online about Stromboli
View from Saffy's walkies
Flowers
We took our time as we only had 25 miles to go before reaching our destination of Isola Salina. We had seen an anchorage that we wanted to try but when we got there it was no good...again. Anyway while we were taking our time I decided to do some fishing as Phil on Bora La had just caught a fabulous tuna. All was going well when some complete dick head passed us too close, snagged the line and now I have nothing to fish with!! Thanks a lot you Italian twat! Most of the sailors here are complete idiots! It was ridiculous because there was miles of empty ocean around us, not another boat within 5 miles apart from Bora La.
As I was saying we arrived at the anchorage and of course had to take Saffy ashore but it was miles in the dinghy, so late dinner and late to bed. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.
During Saffy's walkies....about 8.30pm
Strangely this island has real cars, well nearly. The other islands have only had three wheel Vespa's or golf buggies.
I love this old Roma number plate
They have a book exchange here in Lingua also
Some nice looking resturants
Yep
Nice rock formations at our anchorage
Punta Grottazza
And clear water
Weird
Friday 10th July... *** HAPPY BIRTHDAY SUMMER ***
LINDA - Today we all took our dinghies around the point and up to the main town. It was quite a trek but well worth it as the town (Santa Marina) was lovely. The sand was so hot on the beach where we landed that Saffy was doing a dance before we realised what was wrong. Sorry Saffy. There's some big ferries come into the commercial port and the roll on roll off was in when we arrived.
It was 11am by this time and we found a perfect hotel cafe for coffee and Apple Cake, with super views of the seafront.
How do the waiters know we always want Cappuccino?
Oscar and Saffy taking a breather
Saffy drinking Oscar's water
Views from the cafe
Nice furniture and mirror
Entrance/Exit to the hotel cafe
Next we walked along the main street with shops of all descriptions, and so we made a few small purchases, mainly food including crusty bread. On the way back to the dinghies Saffy needed a carry as she was exhausted.
Main Street
Unusual gifts for sale
The Church... as always a good photo
Walking back to the dinghies
Another ferry arrives, drops anchor, and reverses to the quay
The ladies spent the afternoon paddleboarding this beautiful anchorage. The rock formations are extraordinary. Phil & Cris gave us all four tuna steaks each from yesterday's catch. Here's a photo of Dean & Saffy's fresh tuna dinner, yum yum.
Fresh Tuna, Saffy's fave
Saffy says 'thank you for my tuna Bora La'
Gone in less than a minute
Nice catch Phil
Saturday 11th July....Dean Not much to report today, the weather was hot again and we decided to stay in the anchorage as being the weekend we're not sure how busy it will be elsewhere, and if we will be able to fit in to another anchorage if we move on. Most of the time they're packed in the day but at about 7pm the locals all clear off home. After we walked Saffy I did some more hull scrubbing, it's hard work with just the snorkel. Phew.
Trying to cool Saffy down during walkies
Some nice flowers on the walk
The nearest place to bring the dinghy to shore is maybe a mile around the headland, the dinghy and outboard has done us proud and gets up on the plane easily with us two and Saffy. Although it can be a bumpy ride unless the water is very flat. In the evening we decided to go for pizza with Phil and Cris from Bora La. We went on the way to Saffy's evening walk and had a great time I think Saffy has finally got used to travelling by dinghy.
This is the last blog post entitled The Aeolian Islands - Panarea, Stromboli, Salina
The next post will be entitled The Aeolian Islands - Lipari, Vulcano
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