Settling into the new sailing season
Thursday 7th April...
Linda - It's been a few days on the water now and we are settling in nicely. As predicted, it was a windy day here in Messolonghi anchorage, therefore we stayed aboard all day to keep our eye on everything. There are four other boats here with us too, plus two more on the quay wall. It gives you confidence in your decisions when others are doing the same. It was a little choppy, but not uncomfortable. We just about kept ourselves amused. Oh and there are literally hundreds of mosquitos on the boat, so we kept the doors and hatches firmly closed. This afternoon I was watching a boat come in to anchor. I don't know what happened, but as they dropped the anchor and were panning out the anchor chain they somehow lost the whole lot. I guess either it wasn't tied on to the boat, or the chain or rope broke. How devastating for them when it's windy too. I can imagine the horror they must have gone through at that moment. Luckily they were able to put some fenders out and moor alongside the town quay wall. Not a good start to their sailing season.
Views across the anchorage
...and to the marina
Friday 8th April...
Linda - Nice and calm this morning. We went ashore to get the transit log stamped, then to the marina cafe where we sat and had a nice coffee in perfect sunshine. Then into town to Dean's favourite shop, the Chandlery, where he spent quite a long time. Then a walk into the centre, then a bite to eat and a drink, plus a bit of shopping.
Nice house here
Derelict house
Agios (saint) Spiridon church
Hybrid Orange/Lemon tree
Linda - This morning we went back into town. Three things on the agenda. First to find some event we were told was going on to do with the Messolonghi local cultural group (nothing was happening), so we abandoned that idea. Next stop was the Saturday street market for fruit and veg. It was ok but Dean was looking for olives and it was a bit disappointing olive wise, so still haven't got any. Thirdly and most excitingly (apparantly) was the chandlery shop again. I find out that the reason Dean spent so much time in there yesterday was because he was ordering 100 metres of yellow floating line (the special stuff for tying to shore). The chandlery ordered it in for him and it had arrived. It comes on a roll of 150 metres, so Dean decided he would take the whole roll and did a deal. It was a good price so worth doing. We've been on the lookout for this for quite a while and comparing prices etc. We will cut it into two x 75 metre lengths for when we tie to shore. But the most amazing thing is that Dean told me it was my Anniversary present. Mm I will have to think about that one, as it's a bit too early for that.
Here it is
Hey, that's my present, not yours
It was quite an exciting day as we found our friend Irene up Lira's mast doing the cleaning jobs. I hope Dean doesn't get any silly ideas about me doing the same. She made it look so easy.
There was a BBQ in the marina this afternoon and we had been invited. We were shocked to find about 30 boaters attending, including all of us at anchor. The weather was super, we had a really good time and didn't get back to the boat for about 5 hours! I joined in a game of boules (never one to miss out on a game), whilst Dean talked boats. Everyone was so friendly and we even got to fuss our neighbour's two dogs.
Sunday 10th April...
Linda - We had to get our skates on and go ashore early this morning, about 9.30am to see the Hellenic Coastguard (Port Police) to get our Transit Log stamped out. We were hoping to leave tomorrow but it now looks pretty windy so may change our plans and go Tuesday instead. Not sure of destination yet, will have to see what the wind brings. We are trying to go south in order to get around the Peloponnese, but may go across to one of the Ionian Islands for a few days beforehand.... Kefalonia, Ithaca, or Zakynthos maybe.
It's been a windy day here today too, gusting around 28 knots which is why we went ashore early. Back on the boat, Dean kept us busy. He unravelled all 150 metres of our new yellow floating line from the reel and we've been trying to decipher where the centre is in order to cut it into two equal parts. There is so much of it and it keeps coiling itself, so it has been impossible to do inside the boat. Although, Dean didn't give up easily and made several attempts before postponing the job. We will try and get it onshore to lay it all out properly sometime this week.
He also got the sewing machine out to sew zips onto the bags which will hold the yellow line. We'll keep it all fastened to the guardrails outside for easy access when tying to shore. He found the material and zips at Licata, someone had left by the bins so we are recycling it. This is the first time we have used the sewing machine whilst at anchor! We have to put the inverter on in order to create electricity.
Getting the new bags ready
Hi Ho, it's off to work we go
Photo from the boat of my transit points for
making sure we don't drag anchor in the wind
Uncoiling the floating line
Looks like spaghetti
Linda - Here in Messolonghi we are still waiting for the right weather to move on. The wind was still strong today, more so than expected. We did keep occupied though with some tasks. Quite early we went ashore with a dinghy full of the yellow floating line and a bag of laundry. We like to multi-task wherever possible 😀. We popped the laundry into the machine, then took the 150 metres of yellow line where we could lay it all out in a complete straight line, in order to find the exact middle and cut it into two. The mark we had guessed at yesterday was only about half a metre out. We had a bet on this and Dean was the closest, so the winner.
After the cutting ceremony, Dean put each yellow line nicely into the bags he sewed yesterday. It worked a treat and we are very pleased with the job. Let's see how it all works when we tie to shore next time. I'm sorry, I didn't get a photo. I think I'm a bit out of practise with the camera and keep forgetting to take photos.
Back onboard Thesee it had become quite gusty, but somehow we managed to put the bimini solar panels up. To keep the boat batteries topped up we've been running the engine and generator, so hopefully with all solar panels now performing it will help. We have been at anchor for 5 days though, so overall we are pleased with how everything is working.
Dean then proceeded to give another coat of sealer to the teak toe-rails, and we helped our friends Thomas and Irene out by printing a copy of their TEPAI (cruising tax) for them. At 6pm the four of us and Skipper Dog went for dinner at a really lovely bar around the other side of the harbour. It was quite special, nice tables, nice food, nice wine, but still only cost about 16 euros each. They didn't have tablecloths, but I didn't mind because the wooden tables were lovely.
Tomorrow, a new destination 👍
After all this excitement, he jumped in to go and check the anchor. It's been quite a day, we hope tonight will be just as pleasant.
Tuesday 12th April...
Linda - Aha! I have photos. At 8am we raised the anchor and set off for Ithaka, it's one of the Ionian Islands, and about 40 miles west of Messolongi. It's not the direction we wanted but we needed a change of scenery and this was the best wind option available today. Nevertheless, it's still a nice place and the water in the remote bays looks gorgeous. Tonight we are in the anchorage in the main town, Vathy. It's calm and we've been ashore for dinner. We managed to find some stuffed olives for Dean. I can't believe how difficult it is to find olives in Greece!
Messolonghi anchorage this morning 😊
Sailing towards Ithaca
First time we've had the main sail up this year
Approaching Ithaca
Nearing the anchorage
Looks nice, but a big cloud overhead
Here we are
Floral trolley outside the supermarket
Easter Eggs
Wednesday 13th April...
Linda - A very calm morning here in Ithaka. Morning dew covered the boat. Dean was happy as it means a free deck clean, and he soon put his chamois leather to use and started wiping the dew about. It's a good anchorage but not much here, and felt we wanted to move on.
Lovely morning in Ithaca town, looking North West
That big dark cloud still around
Greek Orthodox Church up on the hillside
Free deck clean
After some deliberation, we only moved 5 miles around to the east coast of the island to a marvellous small secluded anchorage called Filiatro Bay. There were no other boats here (not surprising as it's still early season). We picked a spot and anchored in 7 metres of beautiful blue water.
Looks lovely here
Wow, blue water at last, first this year
Very tempting, but still rather cold
It should be calm tonight so we are planning on staying overnight, and an early departure tomorrow morning. It's been a beautiful afternoon, Dean even got the drone out and had a little fly about. He gets very nervous when he flies it over water. He hasn't flown it for quite a while so he had to remember what to do. He did manage to get a few photos of Thesee.
Ready for take-off
Just in the air
Ready
Following the chain to the anchor
Meanwhile, another photo across the bay
Thursday 14th April...
Linda - Yesterday was one of those days that you dream about, just idyllic. We had sat eating our dinner outside in the cockpit watching flocks of sheep with their lambs go by, scouring the grassy beach area for food, and following the sound of the lead sheep's cowbell. There were goats with their kids on the rocks, the kids playfully heading each other for seniority. We honestly couldn't ask for more from an anchorage.
We slept like babies, the sea was so calm. Right time, right place.
On to today then. Time to move on again, and get some miles under the keel. It was very calm and we motored down the coast of Ithaca, and then Kefalonia, unsure of our final destination... Zakynthos or Katakolon? En-route we decided to push on the extra 20 miles to Katakolon. We did get a little sailing in for the last couple of hours, but on the whole we had to motor. The skies were amazing, full of high cirrus clouds, a sign of settled weather.
Katakolon is back on the mainland of the western peloponnese, arriving at 5pm we decided to go onto the quay wall. You can't manage to find much information about what to do, or who to call. There was one more sailing yacht on the wall so we decided to go next to it, deploying the anchor and reversing back towards the wall, then hoping someone will come and help catch the lines and thread them through the rings on the quay. It's a horrible way of mooring but very common in Greece.
A couple of people did come to help, but you have no idea who they are and if they are the officials or not. One of them did in fact turn out to be the manager but he was not very helpful. Anyway, we got tied up. The water was flat but there was a lot of surge and we kept yawing side to side, forward and back. Trying to get off the boat was almost impossible, bordering on dangerous in fact, as we held our breaths whilst walking the passarelle from boat to quay.
Later we took a little stroll around the place. The cruise ships dock here, presumably for visits to ancient Olympia (the location of the ancient Olympic games from 776 BC to 393 AD). Apart from that there's nothing here only a tourist train, some bars, and a gift shoppy street but mostly all closed. To be honest, we don't like it here. I doubt if we shall get much sleep tonight.
Gift shop street
Marina (quay) office
Thesee on the quay wall
Notice the three main fenders with NEW navy fender socks
Friday 15th April...
Linda - Successfully walking the passarelle (plank) to get off the boat without falling in this morning, we walked to the Port Police (who were very nice) to get stamped in, and out. We didn't want to stay here for another day and there is a bit of weather forecast for the coming weekend. The harbour office was closed and we needed to pay. We waited until almost 10am, and in the end we put the cash in an empty jar and left it at the office doorway. It was only 8.54 euros for the night, strange amount, but this is a strange place after all. Funnily enough, it's the only place we've paid for so far this year, and it's the worst!
We departed the quay without any problems, mainly because Dean is so organised. The rings we were tied to are heavy and lying flat on the ground, and the lines don't slip through them, but clever Mr C put a stone underneath to raise them so we could pull the lines through easily from the boat.
The journey was 30 miles (roughly 6 hours) across the bay to Kiparissia. We were hoping to get enough wind to sail at least slowly and save on diesel. We motored for about an hour and half before we could start sailing. About half way the wind picked up gradually and we were steaming along at 6 knots. Super! The wind rose to about 15 - 16 knots apparant, and we ended up having to put not one, but two reefs in the sails and we were still doing 8 knots, sometimes 9. We were flying. Dean finally got to do some proper sailing.
Approaching Kiparissia
Our location tonight
Here at Kiparissia it's a half finished and abandoned marina quay. Two sailboats already here, we carefully chose a spot and moored against the wall with help from neighbours to take the lines. There was a sign on the wall welcoming sailors. We immediately felt at home, what a difference to the last place. And it's free here too!
Friendly sign
I was quite tired, however we walked into the town and bought a few groceries. There's a mountain backdrop to the town, and we have the best views from Thesee. Quite picturesque.
Fishermen's Chapel
Town square, some stockings hanging from the tree?
Must be an Easter thing
Lots of bars and cafes
Magnificent Church
Lovely trees
View down to the harbour
There's Thesee
Saturday 16th April...
Dean - Not much planned today except watching the weather of course. I lifted the engine cover first thing to say good morning to the engine, as you do. Anyway I noticed a small amount of diesel under the engine! shock horror.!!!!!!!!
I had a good look around but have found no leaks so far. Still, a good opportunity to give the engine a good once over and a good clean.
Seems all OK from here
Side view
I also checked all the alternator wiring!
and the diesel tank
All secure no leaks
We had quite a nice sail across the bay yesterday so I can only imagine the diesel must have been a previous spillage that has made its way to the front of the motor.
Nice!
By the time I had made sure the engine was clean and everything tidied away we had achieved 100% charge in the batteries with the solar. We had a spot of lunch and then went out for a walk about. Today we have seen a cat, turtle, horse, chicken, cockerel, goat, sheep, dog, and a dead snake.
Bollard squatter!
Harbour wall
In case we forget
Nice accommodation on the walking route
Wild flowers
Furious flowers
Field
Horse
Swimming pool at a nice "art" hotel?
Disused railway line
We've seen these before!
We ended up at yet another supermarket. I picked up a bottle of drain cleaner as I noticed the forward heads sinks was a little blocked. Anyway that's all sorted now, hopefully the three sink outlets we have will be all good from now on.
Linda - Wowsa! Last night at around 10pm the wind got up really strong and went for it all through the night and up to about 3pm this afternoon. Dean put extra lines on before we went to bed, and although I think we got some sleep, I was dreaming about wind. I must have been semi-conscious. At 4.30am a big gust came through, and we both jumped up as the body lotion bottle went flying and woke us. We hadn't seen this weather predicted and was a bit of a shock. This morning our barometer had dropped to 999.9 😮 I think it was trying to tell us something.
Not wanting to leave the boat, we decided not to go out anywhere today. Dean chose to do a job that's been on the cards for ages. He previously had fitted a pressure relief pipe to the hot water tank, and today the big job was threading the pipe under the floor to drain directly into the bilge. Threading pipes or cables through the boat is our least favourite chore, and it took a few hours before the plan came together and we succeeded.
When the wind stopped we ventured outside to find the boat covered in another layer of Sahara dust. Ugh, more cleaning for Dean.
Dirty boat again
The Port Police turned up this afternoon and checked our paperwork along with about another 4 boats. We're getting quite used to it now.
Monday 18th April...
Linda - Middle of the night the shorelines started squeaking and the boat yawing again. The swell outside has turned, and although you would think we are enclosed here, somehow the swell is working its way in. Plus the wind is now westerly and pushing us onto the quay. The fenders are getting squashed and rolling along between boat and quay, gathering bits of stones and rubbing onto the lovely shiny hull.
We are trying to organise a diesel delivery. We haven't found any ports with fuel yet, and although we are not desperate, it's a good idea to keep plenty as we realise now that it's not easily available in this area.
This morning Dean decided to clean the outlet pipe on the forward heads. This is a job that needs doing now and again. It used to take hours but now he's got it down to a T, and by 9am the job was done. You've seen him do it before... the pipe bashing on the quayside.
Late afternoon we had a walk up towards the castle and the old town (which we now find out is basically just one road). We didn't walk far enough before giving up and turning back, ending up in a cafe sharing a huge croissant.
Turkey! This is where we're going 😉 ha ha
Wisteria
Nice houses, the further up the hill we go
Plants like leylandii but with flowers
Afternoon treats
Tuesday 19th April...
Linda - We had managed to arrange a fuel delivery for this morning at 11.30am, and was quite amazed when it all went to plan. The man at the small BP fuel station in town said he had a fuel truck and would deliver 200 litres of diesel this morning.... and he DID. We can't believe it! The technical term for refuelling a boat is called bunkering.
The cute little fuel truck
Now filling the spare containers
So that was one thing less off our minds. We had a stroll this afternoon, this time to the west of the port. There was a nice beach, not sand but still pretty.
I always seem to be sitting on something in photos
Rock formations
A bit further on
Still a fair amount of swell coming in
It's been 42 hours now that the boat has been yawing. There's been a lot of wind and 1.5 metre swell coming down the Ionian and past here, which is obviously causing the problem we are experiencing. It's been depressing to sit and listen to it constantly. We were thinking of going to anchor instead, but have been hoping the 'man with a key' would come and unlock the water hose so that we could fill up. We've given up on that one now.
Tomorrow we are likely to move on.
The next blog post will be called 'Making progress on the Peloponnese Fingers'
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