Thursday 3rd June... Linda - Early risers we were. Not only excited to be going into the Adriatic but we wanted to be in Otranto by midday. So up at 4.30am, anchor raised by 5.15am and we were off. Our anchor windlass is sounding seriously poorly. It would choose its moments now that we are heading to Croatia to do lots of anchoring!
The sun was just rising as we left the anchorage and turned north east for today's 25 mile trip. We could see land in the far distance and thought it must be Albania. Strange though....perhaps a mirage?
Is that really Albania?
We tacked all up the coast, not always in a good direction but at least we weren't going backwards. It was actually quite amazing because we sailed the whole journey.
Thesee tracking
So now we are on the back of Italy's leg. We can't believe we've come so far in just 12 days. Anchored tonight in Otranto, it looks very nice from the boat. Exploring tomorrow and hopefully stay for a few days. Dean spent most of the afternoon with his head in the anchor locker. He has found oil in the windlass motor, which shouldn't be there and he thinks it has leaked in from the gearbox. Time to replace we think.
Friday 4th June... Linda - Our first trip ashore in Otranto, and wow it's just delightful. Beautiful beaches, quaint shops, bars, and restaurants, and so so clean. No trash left anywhere in the streets. B&B's overlooking the harbour, clear blue shallow water ideal for bathing and kiddies. And for us a most important requirement, a purposeful dinghy landing beach extremely well sheltered behind the breakwater. In fact Dean rowed ashore, no need for the outboard engine.
We embarked on a very good look around the immediate vicinity of the castle, marina, and old town streets. One of the barber shops even had a classic motorbike in its window, and an antique kiddies barber's chair with as if sitting on a horse. Choosing a nice looking cafe overlooking the bay we ate the most wonderful crema & chocolate croissants with a cappuccino and americano.
Looking ashore from Thesee
Dinghy beach
This'll do nicely
Elevensies
Thesee sitting comfy in the bay
Then time for a second look around. Entrance to the castle was only 3 euro and we were going to go in but the man at the ticket office said that only the ground floor was open due to maintenance on the upper levels. We thought it wasn't worth it if you can't be King of the Castle so changed our minds.
Entrance to the old town
Spectacular buildings
Crossing the moat
When we were walking to the marina side of the bay we passed a square named Piazza all 'Umanita' Migrante. Translated it means Square to the migrant humanity'. Nearby was an old boat memorial and the boat had lots of glass sculpture on it making it look like it was in the sea. On reading the plaque we discovered the boat was the Albanian Guard Ship 'Kater I Rades' which sank in 1997 off the coast with the loss of 81 souls fleeing civil war.
Interesting name
The Albanian shipwreck
You can see the glass additions here
And how it was before
The story
Back through the town streets and more photos before rowing back to Thesee for lunch and an afternoon rest. Later on in the early evening we went ashore with the Debbie & Paul, Alli & Roman, and Millie their dog of course. A lovely evening again with nice wine and very pleasant atmosphere. Otranto is great, and again another place which has surprised us.
Tambourines to dance the Tarantella.
Southern Italy was the birthplace of this famous folk dance.
I'm a bit obsessed with this as I danced the Tarantella in a junior school play
Spot Dean in there somewhere
Castle entrance
Marina concession pontoons
What a view
💙 Oh that water 💙
Around the outer walls
Bella Italia
How you imagine Italy to be
Perfect
Too early for diners
Back outside the walls now
A bit of exercise for Dean as he
rows back to Thesee
Not a lot going on today. It was very calm weather. Dean jumped in and did a bit of hull scrubbing for an hour or so. Then we took a stroll ashore late afternoon for an ice cream. We passed a lovely ceramic shop, so colourful.
Thursday 10th June... Dean - OK me again, how lucky you all are. Today was going to be laundry day. So first things first was to find some change for the machine. I managed to get the thing up and running in the end but it took over two hours in each machine, something to do with eco mode!
Colourful flower pots
Allsorts inside the shop
Row of multi coloured turtle plant holders
Being Saturday the anchorage was quite busy. We got a great view from the shore. Tomorrow we move on to Brindisi for a few nights.
Look how calm
Sunday 6th June... Linda - Our catamaran friends left the anchorage at 5am heading off across the Strait of Otranto to Albania. For us on Thesee it was a 9am departure. Our trip today was approx 42 miles up the coast of Apulia to Brindisi, so about 8-9 hours sailing. The first three hours were light airs so we sailed with the cruising chute, and we were impressed to be getting about 4.5 knots of speed. It was very very pleasant. Dean noticed that there was an oily patch on the cruising chute, it must be some of the leaking gearbox oil from the windlass. Another job for the to do list. We were sailing about 2 miles offshore, the coast was flat and pretty boring except for one big sandy bay resort we could see with the binoculars.
Nice flat sea perfect for the cruising chute
Close up of the oily patch
Around midday we swapped the cruising chute for the genoa. The apparent wind had slowly risen to 10 knots....our sign for taking the chute down. We pushed it a little too far once back in the Bay of Biscay and got overpowered, so we are always conscious of this.
It was a long day but we didn't get fed up. We were going in the right direction and in no rush. As we approached Brindisi a large ship came into the shipping channel. There is one channel marked for incoming vessels and two channels marked for outgoing vessels. It's very organised. We followed in behind the cargo ship.
Eurocargo Sicilia
The cardinal marker us and the big ship were aiming for
First thing we saw in the harbour was 'Explorer of the Seas' cruise ship. It looked a sorry sight, obviously been its home for quite a while during the pandemic. Over the last year we've seen quite a number of cruise ships and ferries awaiting better days.
Hopefully this cruise ship will be back in commission soon
The harbour reminds us a little bit of Southampton. We don't get to go into big harbours very often. So we passed around the castle and into the marina behind it. It's very well sheltered and will be our home for a few days whilst we get ourselves and Thesee reorganised for the next steps on to Croatia.
Massive cranes in the docks
Castello Alfonsino di Brindisi
Monday 7th June... Linda - We went to the office to check-in at 9.30am and excitedly collect the replacement solar panel that had been delivered here for us. It was another lovely morning. We set about checking the marina essentials, showers, bar, and then back to the boat where Dean got to work with the new panel. It didn't take too much messing about and in no time at all it was stuck down on the deck, wires fed through and up and running. Everything perfect. The solar panel company have been very good and we would/have recommended them.
Opening the new panel, all looks good
This afternoon a big old tall ship was towed into the harbour and into the boatyard next door to us. We were shocked to realise that it was the very same ship that broke her moorings and went aground in Gaeta when we were there during the storms of November 2019. The ship is called 'Signora del Vento', which means Lady of the Wind. I wonder if she will ever be restored to her full glory. I just googled the ship and it says she was sold to a Venetian entrepreneur last December for 50,000 euros.
Signora del Vento
It was a nice evening so we tried out the bar in the marina. We didn't know that we had actually sat in the restaurant area until the waitress told us, and so we had to move to the bar area. It was much more comfy and loungy and right on the waters edge. Very nice. Dean tried an Italian beer, Rum and Coke for me... it's a safe bet.
A nice setting for our drinkies
Tuesday 8th June... Linda - After quite a bit of nagging we were happy to get confirmation that the new windlass gearbox and motor had been despatched and was on its way to us here in Brindisi. ETA Thursday 10th.
So we bought some bus tickets from the marina shop and went to the supermarket. My homework told me that we needed the number 4 bus, but the shop assistant said number 5 bus. After about a ten minute wait the number 4 bus came, so a little confused we got on it anyway. The marina here is north of the town so only really one main road goes along here. Bus 4 took us to where we expected and coming back, Bus 5 came so we got on that one and it went back to the marina. All's well that ends well even if a little confusing.
The bus stop
Good selection at the Supermarket DOK
... even baby cucumbers
A little later we had a stroll about the local boatyards as much as we could get in to see if there was a chandlery. No luck. We did pass a canoe club though.
Very sleek and fast canoe, this one
I made a cottage pie for dinner. It was quite yummy, it filled our tummies nicely. I like to add red wine to my cottage pies. Dean decided he had a better use for it.... wine by funnel..... who needs a glass??
Wednesday 9th June... Dean - Here we go again then. After a few reasonably easy days, well I did clean the canvas yesterday. So today I started to take the windlass out of the chain locker. It's very cramped in the locker and I have to let all the chain out to make room to get inside. So I decided to try and remove the windlass using a mirror and hanging in the locker from the top. Obviously there was some swearing involved and a bit of blood from my knuckles but in the end it came out.
I took the motor off first
The seal was just hanging on the shaft!
Oil inside the motor
Gear box next, bit of a job to get it loose from the deck
Off at last
I'm sure this was on Linda's maintenance list!
Mmmm that's scrap then
Water must have gotten in!
That's all bits of brass in the oil/water also
Good job I ordered the complete unit
I spent the rest of the day cleaning the area up ready for the new one. The chain counter needed to be modified and I also made a special washer for the bottom of the shaft, hopefully that will enable me to check the top water seal each year without major disassembly.
MSC Splendida
We had short walk up to the office before dinner to see if they had any change for the washing machine but we misjudged it and yes you've guessed it they were closed. We noticed a lot of lorries queueing on the breakwater this morning. Looks like they were provisioning our new guest, we hadn't noticed it had arrived!
While waiting for the washing I had a call to say that the windlass was being delivered, so off I went to find it.
Linda's next ten Christmas presents
New and shiny
Now in place
Linda trying to help!
So it's in and working. I have to sort out the chain counter in the morning, next time we go ashore with the boat I'll try and get all the chain out so I can get into the locker and make a better job of the wiring. We just have to wait for the weather now. Linda has been reading up on Croatia and what we need to do: Crew list, Non EU check in, (Brexshit)! pay cruising tax, Covid test, sacrifice virgin etc etc.
Friday 11th June... Linda - 8am we were up and out walking. I wanted to go round part of the breakwater and onto the castle headland as it looked like a nice green walk. Along the breakwater were a couple of fishermen and also one that was in the water wearing waders and searching underwater with his glass bottom bucket. I don't actually know what he was fishing for. But I have to say that his bucket was a big one, much bigger than the one Dean uses for checking the anchor from the dinghy.
We got a good view of the marina from the breakwater. Next to the marina is Brindisi airport, great for plane spotters like me, but not that many flights. It's a military airport and we were surprised to see Ryanair, Easyjet, and Wizz planes coming into land first thing. I didn't realise we were in a holiday hotspot, but having a quick look at flights online they look really cheap. This place would be great for anyone leaving their boat and flying back to the UK. Indeed not long after the Ryanair plane landed we saw people on the pontoon with big suitcases.
Thesee's in there somewhere
Transiting the breakwater
Here comes Easyjet !
Fisherman trying to make a living
The sea side of the breakwater
Looks idyllic, how deceiving
As we reached the castle headland we could see there were locked gates with no entry signs. What a shame we could not go further. Also the road to where the cruise ships are was blocked off too. However we could see over the wall to the sea and it looked pretty lumpy. We've been having a number of days with gusty mornings and afternoons. As always the photos make it look calm for some reason.
Our neighbours on the boat nextdoor are Brits. Yesterday they had someone jet wash the underwater hull. I've never heard of that before. It must be quite powerful to remove the mussels that seem to form the growth here. In fact this morning our neighbours told us that the jet washing must have damaged one of the seacocks as they have been having to bail water out of the bilge ever since. Crikey!
It's been very warm inside the boat recently. Today it went up to 29 degrees. There's been a few mozzie bites but not too bad really. Apart from the mozzies, we get what looks like a tiny tiny black butterfly looking thing. I hate them, as their bites make your skin bubble.
Now that Dean's done an amazing job of fitting the new windlass gearbox and motor, he had just one thing left to do.... fit the new sensor. The sensor has a magnet inside and every time the windlass gypsy turns it counts the amount of chain you are letting out / in. The wiring is so flimsy and we found that it had also corroded along with the gearbox. Now the new sensor is fitted and everything is working just fine. A job very well done Dean. If you know Dean you will know that he can't sit still for long. Next thing he was washing the decks down.
This is the new sensor before fitting
Well we came to Brindisi to fix the windlass and solar panel. Both jobs are now complete. Maybe some time for sightseeing while we wait for good winds to help us on our way to Croatia?
Saturday 12th June... Linda - Sightseeing yes indeed. By 9am we were ready, tummies full of scrambled egg on toast, and waiting at the marina bus stop for the number 5 bus.... which was late of course. The bus timetables are a nightmare, all the info is years old so it's anybody's guess what will happen. Still it's only 1 euro for a half hour bus ride into Brindisi town centre so we can't complain at that.
This weekend is the Brindisi to Corfu Sailing Regatta. Along the town quay were about 70 boats getting ready for the start of the race tomorrow. So we strolled along the quay looking at the varied sizes, makes, and nationalities of the entrants. We found a boat called Linda! And also a Welsh registered boat proudly flying his Welsh Dragon flag.
Dean at the start of our boat browse
I'm putting my money on this one
Not a sight you see every day in the Med
Along the quay we came across the Appian steps. This is the end of the Appian Way, which is one of the earliest and strategically most important Roman roads connecting Rome to Brindisi.
There's me in yellow on the steps
Looking across the harbour we could see a very large monument which is apparantly supposed to look like a boat's rudder. It's called the Italian Sailor Monument, built in 1933 and stands 54 metres tall. I was surprised it was so old, as it looks very modern. Together with the Roman Columns on the Appian Steps, it is considered the symbol of the city.
Lots to get ready
Looking out of the harbour we could see the
two cruise ships on the outer breakwater
Big catamaran here
...and Pirates of Puglia too
Now nearing the Swabian castle of Brindisi
In Piazza Dante looking for coffee stop
Clinic or Pub ? ... not sure
At the fountain in Piazza Cairoli
Look we found a Saffy shop
After coffee and croissants at eleven, and then lunch at a kebaberia (chicken kebab, chips, salad and two cokes for just 7.50 euros) we waited for about 45 minutes for the bus back to the marina.
When we got back there were a lot of boats out and about. It was a hive of activity, and also two polizia jets ski's had arrived. Nice to get out and about and see some of the sights. Thesee's adventures aren't just about sailing.
New arrivals... we'd better be on our best behaviour
Huge sailing boat anchored off the marina
getting its mainsail ready for the race
Good Luck boat number 93
I took a screenshot of the race boats from the internet as they gathered in the outer harbour...
I take it the green line is the start
Dean cleaned the hull, shady side first then after lunch, the other shady side. Later we took a little walk to find a yacht being towed into the marina. It was pretty breezy all day so it was quite something to see the little dingy towing the yacht into the wind.
We had just returned from our walk when our neighbours Mark and Kim were going out for a drink and invited us along. So a good hour or two getting to know each other. Hence a late dinner and now a bit of TV whilst I'm blogging. The race is approximately 100 miles. We've just checked and one of the boats has finished already, with an impressive speed of 13 knots. Wow, that's fast!
Monday 14th June... Linda - A quiet day here on Thesee, but a windy one too. We have been here over a week now and it's really just the weather keeping us in port. Today was very windy with a big sea from the north. This marina is so well protected from that direction, we hardly noticed anything. The harbours further north are not so protected which is why we have stayed here. The sea doesn't look like calming down until Wednesday afternoon. We have a bit of a plan for a possible departure on Friday but we have to arrange our Covid tests to coincide with the weather. At the moment we think we shall go for an overnight crossing to Croatia.
Dean did some teak oiling along Thesee's starboard side, and this afternoon we had a walk north of the marina for a short way. The sea was rolling in but there were still sunbathers on the rocky beaches. I tried to get some photos of the sea at its worst, but as always it tends to look calm on photos.
Just north of the marina
The first bay along
Breakers here
A bit better photo
Scarry coastline
Almost lovely here
Tuesday 15th June... Linda - Yikes, it was windy in the night. First woken by a load of nearby fireworks at midnight, then at 2am onwards the wind was juddering the boat. Dean was up and outside tying a line around the snood and mainsail lazy bag to stop it flapping around, also tightening the lines holding the dinghy down on deck. I felt like I was awake for ages listening to the howling, but obviously at some point we both fell asleep so it must have calmed down at some point.
Nothing much on the itinerary today so we went in search of booking a PCR covid test which we need to get into Croatia. We just missed bus number 5 so we decided to walk the mile or so to the laboratory clinic. Amazingly they said they could do the specific test we need, and so we have booked in for Thursday morning at 8am. Whoopie. Then we have 72 hours to get to Croatia.
We were right near the Brindisi sailor monument so we had a walk about, but didn't go inside. We thought it was free but they wanted 3 euros, so we went for coffee and croissant instead. The gardens surrounding the monument were lovely and it was right on the quayside so we browsed about for a bit.
Our covid test lab
Guns at the monument
Looking across to Brindisi town centre
Around the gardens
The sailor monument again
Along the quayside
Distinct greenery against the sky
Me sitting on a big anchor
We got some more shopping and were only at the bus stop for five minutes when the bus came. Time to start getting ourselves and the boat ready for the big trip across to Croatia.
Wednesday 16th June... Linda - Busy body early birds we were today. By 9am we had defrosted the fridge and done a few bits of washing. Twiddling our thumbs we went to pay the marina for our 11 nights here in Brindisi. It was quite a shock when the bill came and it said 980 euros! We had already calculated that it should only be 45 euros a night so 980 was way too much. We queried it and they made us out a new correct invoice. We think they had used the July rate instead of the June rate.
I made some meals ready for our passage to Croatia and Dean spent time getting the boat prepared. We went online and paid our Croatia Sojourn (Tourist) tax. You can pay by length of boat or by number of persons on board. Being just two of us it was cheaper to pay for persons on board. Quite a saving. All that's left to do now is get our PCR tests in the morning. We shall be leaving around midday, making our way up the coast for about 100 miles past Monopoli, Bari, and towards Vieste, before turning to head across the Adriatic to an island called Lastovo. It's a port of entry into Croatia and reports say it's lovely. I can't wait.
There'll be a new blog post from tomorrow called 'Croatian Summer'
(you might have to wait a day or two until I have internet again)
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