Hvar to the Dalmatian Coast
Friday 25th June... Linda - Today's new island is Hvar, only about 15 miles journey. We left early as the wasps in last night's anchorage were just driving us mad. We had to eat dinner inside the boat last night it was so bad outside. Hvar is one of the longer islands being 42 miles long and mountainous especially in the middle. There was a very scary looking road going for miles along the coast, with what seemed to be no protection from driving straight off the side.
Nearing Hvar
To get to tonight's anchorage at Uvala Vela Garska we passed the main town (also called Hvar) and did a bit of a detour into the bay for a glimpse. It's real busy on the water, boats everywhere. We calculated to be here in Hvar on a Friday night as most of the charter boat fleet are back in Trogir/Split for changeover day. Maybe we will be able to work out how to have a look at some point. There's a quay and buoys and also an anchorage but all the reports say the wash from the ferries and tourist boats is terrible.
Passenger ferry coming out of Hvar as we enter
Hvar fortress
....and town
Very nice hotels
We chose the anchorage at Vela Garska because there's a little bit of wind tomorrow and we thought it would give some protection. We decided on a spot and tried the stern line to shore mooring again, for the third day running. Unfortunately, it didn't go as well as hoped and we provided a good deal of entertainment for the boats already there and watching. I admit the stern line slipping off the cleat was my fault, so Dean ended up rowing to shore with an unattached line. But the rest of the palava I would call a misunderstanding... let's leave it at that. It's another lovely inlet and we are right by a rustic bar/restaurant too.
Nice spot
Dean trying to check on the anchor
but it's quite deep here
Once we had sorted ourselves out and settled in Dean did a few jobs including checking the navigation lights. Then this afternoon we went on our Legacy walk, landing the dinghy on the beach and walking up the very rural and rugged pathway to where there were a couple of donkeys. On the way we saw five deer too!
Red port side navigation light
... now the green starboard light
Landing on the beach at the bar/restaurant
Start of the pathway
rules and regulations
I managed to photo one of the deer
Approaching the deer hide
Looking down to see the donkey having a scratch
Back at the water's edge
In the bar
Donkey drinkies too... sea water
and our dinghy
Saturday 26th June... Linda - The anchorage yesterday was great, but we had doubts about the direction the boat was lying (for the due wind) and also Dean said the anchor chain was lying around the anchor slightly. To satisfy ourselves we researched an anchorage on the north coast of Hvar called Uvala Mali Bok. Every time I go to write where we are I have to look in the ship's log book as the names are so unusual I can't remember them in my head. We were there by 11am. Because of the short distances we've been travelling we have motored instead of sailed. Plus today the west wind gusts were due after lunch so we wanted to get there sooner rather than later.
We travelled along the channel between the islands of Hvar and Brac, and tucked ourselves in on the east side of a very squiggly headland which almost looks like a bit of weed floating about if you look at google maps.
This is southern shore of Brac Island
A number of green valleys with small villages
Small lighthouse on the headland
The anchorage was very sheltered and we basically had the choice of about four bays as there was no-one else around. This was the fourth night on the trot that we have put stern lines to shore. We took our time deciding on the right place, and I have to say we chose a real corker.
Dropping the anchor about 70 metres off the shore was at a depth of about 17 metres. Reversing back whilst panning out the anchor chain and securing lines to shore left us about 25 metres off which is about perfect, and the depth was still at 8 metres. My word the water looked fantastic.
Looking to starboard side
Looking astern
Looking to port side
Dean has had about 3 swims today, for me just the one. But it was so appealing I felt that I could just go and jump right in from the boat there and then.
We honestly wouldn't have come here if it wasn't for shelter. We're so glad we did, and it wasn't too windy after all, but we could see it was a little blustery out in the main channel. And we even sat there and saw dolphins in the bay. To top it off we had bacon, eggs, beans, and mushrooms for dinner. Another successful day on board the good ship Thésée.
Sunday 27th June... Linda - Boiled eggs with soldiers for breakfast. Normally would be scrambled egg on toast on a Sunday, but to use the toaster we have to switch the inverter on, and that uses power.
The pole holds out the genoa when you are sailing downwind, and there is not quite enough wind for the genoa to hold itself out. In other words the genoa flogs and becomes useless. Ideally you sail directly down wind with the main sail out one side, and the poled out genoa out the other side. We spent quite a while getting the technique right, making a few adjustments, and for me... getting my head around it all. So here I am modelling the new set up (without the sail attached of course, as we are still at anchor).
Howzat?
An adjustment to the lines made a big difference
Late morning we dinghy'd a couple of coves down and went ashore for what was supposed to be a legacy walk, but in fact it turned into more of a ramble. We took the wrong path first, eventually finding our way over the hilltop to the sea on the other side. There was supposed to be a bar/cafe place, but when we got there it was cordoned off and marked private, do not enter. Obviously they only cater for organised parties of tourists and boaters. Shame, as we were gagging for a drink other than the water we were carrying. But it was a beautiful cove anyway.
As we landed the dinghy
on a deserted pebble beach
Translation... don't throw trash
Starting the ramble
Dean finds a bicycle repair station!
Everything you would need
Downhill now to bar/cafe
Idyllic setting
Sitting cooling off in the shade
Must pack the swimsuit in the backpack next time
It was so hot, my face was like a beetroot. When we got back to Thesee I was straight in the water to cool off. Third time in the water this week! What's going on?
The handsome Thesee at anchor
Later on, Dean went scavanging along the shoreline. What's he doing Charlie? All will be revealed in due course.
It's a mystery
Nextdoor neighbour for a few hours
Dinner this evening was BBQ chicken, roast potatoes, gravy. Yum Yum. Dean was multitasking his culinary skills with swotting a few wasps. As we sat down to eat our Sunday dinner, Dean caught a glimpse of four wild goats running along the shoreline a little way off. Whatever will we see next?
Posing swotter
Nearly ready for our tummies
The wild goats
Monday 28th June... Linda - We've been waking up and getting up early at 6.30ish, and this morning we had some surprise visitors..... The two white goats! Dean spotted them walking past along the rocks and he kind of shouted to me in an urgent whispered voice... CAMERA, CAMERA.
The two goats coming for a drink in our cove, wow!
A good close up of the leader
Now they are checking out our line ashore
Well it was Monday morning, a good day we thought for visiting 'Stari Grad', one of the main towns on Hvar. It's one of the oldest towns in Europe. In fact, Stari Grad means Old Town. We had been told that it was well worth a visit and had a good town quay for berthing. Plus it mean't we could do a big food shop, fill the water tanks, and give all our electrical items a good charge.
11.30am arrival at Stari Grad
A lot of yesterday's boats just leaving
Here's the town, looking across from the supermarket
It reminded us of the harbour at Weymouth
It's Dean's birthday tomorrow, and this was a great opportunity to go out this evening for a nice meal to celebrate. So we were eyeing up the restaurants and menus.
Strong contender
It's was sooooo hot today. 38 degrees inside the boat. After our second trip to the supermarket for 10 bottles of pop and 10 cartons of juice, we couldn't resist a beer. Bonus, they have draft beer, and for a change Dean had a large one. Just a coke for me.
Aaahhh that's better
It's called Karlovacko
Optical illusion
Boats had been coming and going all day. The charges here are 2 kuna per meter per hour. So you can just stop for an hour if you wish, fill up with water, go shopping, dispose of rubbish etc quite cheaply. For us that works out to about £4 per hour. Quite a lot if you want to stay overnight like us. Neighbours came and went and eventually a huge catamaran squeezed in with only inches to spare. It's was a bit nerve-wracking for us... and them. They were flying some sort of football flag, and we got chatting. It was an Austrian football flag, team name Wolfsberger. Next thing we know they gave us one of the flags! Obviously they want to spread the word around Europe.
Thesee dwarfed against the big catamaran
We waited for the sun to cool and at 8pm were ready for a stroll around the backstreets and then off for Dean's birthday eve dinner. This town is really really lovely, we're so impressed. But how can we choose when there are so many lovely looking restaurants?
Flowers, colours, buildings
We found the Bell Tower
... the Church not so impressive
Wow, lovely tiny restaurants around every corner
Ooh, this looks fab
Too many to choose from
But this is where we ended up
Dean's in love with Croatia
View from our dining table.... beautiful
We has the most amazing dinner here
The Steak, Pork medallions, Wine, and ambience were all perfection
A great choice
Tuesday 29th June.. Linda - ** HAPPY BIRTHDAY DEAN ** A little morning stroll along the shore, then time to pay the mooring fees. It was cheaper than we had expected by about £14. We think they must have charged an overnight rate instead of the hourly rate. Seems you pay a flat fee, then there are additions for water, electric, and recycle facilites. It was only a quickie walk, but very pleasant.
Nice pink girly mansion
Fancy ladies on the roof
More buildings and green trees
The bow of Magellan ship
Souvenir shop window
Where the boats moor
Today we were heading north west to the island of Solta. You have to go through a narrow channel between the islands of Brac, and Solta. The channel is deep but only about a quarter of a mile wide. We've been told you definately don't want to be in this area when it's charter boat day (Friday/Saturday) as they all come down from Trogir and Split, through this narrow channel and off to the southern islands. This is why Thesee's crew decided that a Tuesday was a good day to go for it.
We had sailed across from Hvar to the narrow channel. There were a fair few boats around. A bit like the River Hamble on a busy day, and we were undecided what the wind would be like as it tends to speed up in places like this. To be sure of a good passage through, we put the genoa away but kept the main up and switched the engine on just incase. All went perfectly and we came through without issue.
This is the narrow channel
We were heading towards our red cross marker
The lighthouse in the narrow channel
Three motor boats going south
as we head north
Once we were clear there was less wind on the north side of Solta and it was right behind us. Perfect timing to pole out the genoa. This is what we were practising the other day. We got it set up pretty easily and were goose-winging the main and genoa quite happily at a slowish pace. After a short while we noticed a sail boat ahead and he was coming towards us and aiming right at us. He was motoring (no sails up), and we were sailing (and goose-winging at that!). In the collision regulations, a boat that is motoring should give way to a boat that is sailing. Well it soon became apparent that he had either not seen us or he was not going to give way. We had to do something, so Dean had to switch the engine on and change course. Not easy with sails up, especially a sail out each side.
Well when he passed us Dean gave him a right mouthful of ********* . It was obvious he hadn't seen us, as he was sitting there playing with his chartplotter. It was a charter boat and we think he must have just picked it up and was looking at the instruments, instead of looking where he was going!
Poled out genoa
We weren't too far from tonight's destination at Uvala Necujam, on the north side of Solta. It was quite busy and obviously popular but we found a space in the middle and dropped anchor. Some boats were tied to shore but there was enough room for either, so we stayed put. It's a lovely inlet, not one of our best though we thought. I think we are getting spoiled for choice.
Not sure what you call this sport.
He's holding what looks like a bat wing.
When he gets going his board comes out of the water
and onto its foil
Dean's true Birthday dinner
Chicken, Mash, Beans
Peaceful after the day trippers left
Wednesday 30th June... Linda - Today for lunch stop we travelled to a recommended and very lovely spot on the south side of Otok Ciovo. The island is just off the coast and connected to Trogir mainland town by two bridges. Again a number of coves to choose from, and as it was just a lunch stop we weren't overly picky. The spot we came to look at here was Uvala Duga. Our friends had labelled this spot as the 'Mary Poppins' of all anchorages. It was indeed very beautiful. Just around the corner was another island Otok Sveta Fumija with a few boats already anchored, obviously the place to be for the lights winds today. So that's where we chose for lunch stop and a swim (yes, even me).
Checking out Uvala Duga
.... and its Caribbean like headland
This superyacht also trying to find the best anchor spot
A couple of hours passed by nicely before moving on to Vinisce, a large inlet on on the mainland proper. Another recommendation by our friends. On the way a boat passed in front of us and from afar we thought he had a load of fishing rods on top. Getting closer we realised they weren't fishing rods.... they were people!
Just leaving for Vinisce
Crazy tourists
It wasn't far to Vinisce but it did get a bit choppy along the way. Once inside the inlet it was beautiful and calm again with lots of room to anchor, and surrounded by a number of bars and restaurants. Later on when the sun was cooler we went ashore for a drink. Guess what? They sell CIDER. Oh my God, it's been so long since I drank cider. I don't like beer so having an afternoon drink I usually end up having to drink Fanta. This was a big moment for me. In fact Dean had cider too!
Approaching Vinisce inlet
Some big old boats here
...and a bit of graffiti.... AV.... Aston Villa?
On our walkies ashore
A furry friend to lure us into this bar
They weren't both for me
Cider on ice
You can also buy pickled beetroot in Croatia.... another OMG it's been so long moment. But now I can't seem to get bechamel sauce for my lasagnes. Oh the things a girl needs....
Time to get back on board
Thursday 1st July... Dean - Not much to report today. There was strong wind forecast with gusts up to 25 knots so we decided to stay onboard. We lifted the dinghy back on deck first thing and prepared to sit it out. 1st of the month means monthly maintenance so I started to get stuck into the list of things to check, then disaster struck! while checking the bilge, water alarm and pumps I noticed some liquid in the bilge area. Ooh no it's not fresh water, its not salt water what could be worse? It's beer! one of my beer cans had split and leaked in the bilge, I've been a bit depressed all day over it.
Close neighbour!
While I was doing my maintenance checks I noticed that the wind was building and the boat that was anchored in front of us was getting a little close, once they had appeared at about 10 o'clock lazy bars&%$£s I shouted over that they were dragging, anyway they soon moved to another spot, afraid of Linda I think!. Not much more to report really. I cleaned the stainless on the boat and gave the cockpit teak flooring a good scrub with sea water and we spent the day reading and watching the general comings and goings of the anchorage. Nice day.
Friday 2nd July... Linda - First thing today we went for a legacy walk around the other side of the bay. It's only a small place so we walked up to the Church just a couple of streets back.
Where we left the dinghy
WWII memorial
Lots of same surnames
At the Church
In the graveyard
A beautiful posing butterfly for the camera
The vino shop
A good advert
Unusual cleats on this pontoon
There was an attractive cafe with curtains and flowers (no tablecloths though). Well it was only a coffee stop after all. The waitress was very nice and professional, the coffee good too. Whilst we were there a huge bee landed on the hanging basket by me. But by the time I had my camera out he had flown.
Where's that nice smile please?
Bee-less petunia hanging basket
Pretty gardens
It was another breezy afternoon and we sat on Thesee keeping our eye on him. Quite a few boats came into the bay again, it's a super sheltered anchorage. We can still see out to sea from here though, and later on a cruise ship went past.... the MSC Splendida. We've seen this recently, maybe in Brindisi.
We have an 'app' called Navily which shows anchorages and you can write a report and read other reports etc. It also shows boats nearby to your location. Dean received a message from someone who had seen us on the app, and they asked if it was sheltered here. We replied that it was windy but the sea was flat, and about half an hour later they arrived and anchored.
I was so tired by 8.30pm I had to go to bed. Well we have been getting up early, usually around 6.30am. The morning are normally calm and it's great to sit outside for breakfast.
The next blog post will be called 'The mainland, Rogoznica, northwards bound'
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