Croatian Summer
Thursday 17th June... Linda - Today was the big day! And surprisingly (as it was so important) we were running a little late when we left to go and get our PCR tests at 8am. We had decided to walk to the clinic again, but we took a wrong turn and ended up putting ourselves under more worry that we would be late. However, we walked at our fastest pace and arrived only 5 minutes late. There was a little queue so we needn't have worried at all, as we still had to wait for a short while. Considering our past experiences in Italy it was a quick simple process, and the nasal swab tickled more than anything else!
Getting the hang of these buses now we managed to get the 9am bus back to the marina. Well ahead of our day's schedule we departed Brindisi at 10am. Of course, as always there was a big ship coming into port and we had to avoid it. So once outside the port we got the sails up and began following the coast northwards. At 1pm our PCR test results arrived by email, WOW, so quick we were amazed. Both negative results, which was no surprise to us. Now we could complete our 'Croatia Entry Forms' online.... yes we did eventually get them to 'send' after numerous attempts.
About half way along the route we had to motor for a couple of hours, but then the wind returned and we goose-winged the sails for hours into the night.
The goose-winged sails (one out either side)
Looking up the mast through a deck hatch window
... and from the cockpit
We had a half moon with us until around 3.30am then it all went dark and we spent turns resting / on watch with a fair few fishing boats to identify and dodge. Daybreak wasn't too far away, and it was a super sunrise when it arrived.
Friday 18th June... Linda -
Here comes a new day
Hello
Lovely to see you
Approaching land near Vieste
Picturesque and so calm
Cliffside mansion
Baia di Campi, our anchorage
Wind powered canoer passing by
So we had intended to leave the anchorage at 7pm and do a second overnighter. This time across the Adriatic to Croatia....our final leg of this big step. After second thoughts we left earlier, at 4pm. The main reason being so we could cross the shipping lanes before it got dark. We must have been more sheltered than we thought in the bay, because the wind which was predicted at 6 knots was actually blowing 18 knots around the headland! It did drop down to around 15 knots after a couple of miles out and then steadied at 12 knots.
Crossing the shipping lanes was somewhat hair-raising. This photo shows 4 ships coming our way all a the same time. If you look closely you can see the ship's vectors (dotted lines), showing each ship's actual course. The one on the left was missing us and going to our stern. That left three to keep our eyes on. Two of them passed in front of us, and Dean had to call the other one on the VHF radio to check they had seen us and to clarify they would pass behind us. They said they would, and changed their course to starboard slightly. Phew, my panic over. We were pleased we had decided to leave early and cross the shipping lanes in the daylight.
Are ships like buses? All come at once
During the night the moon disappeared early, there was a little cloud around. Then it was such a dark night, no land lights or boat lights like last night. But, the stars were incredible. It almost looked like you could see whole galaxies. The wind that was supposed to be 6-9 knots stayed around 12-14 knots for the whole crossing. Thesee was flying, so much so that we were going to arrive by 3am. Yikes, we didn't fancy entering the basically unlit island in such darkness. What to do? It's not very often we need to slow the boat down, we're usually trying to go faster.
Dean adjusted the sails which brought the speed down to about 4.5 knots, but we were still going to arrive in the darkness. About 2 miles from our destination, Dean made the decision to do the hove-to manoevre by backing the genoa sail. This stops the boat, and we sat there in the darkness for over an hour twiddling our thumbs and waiting for daylight.
Saturday 19th June... Linda - We eventually entered the harbour at Ubli at 5.30am and had to raft against a 17 metre motor vessel on the Customs Quay. Nice surprise for them to be woken by us so early. We needed to check into Croatia, a first for us as France, Spain, Portugal, Italy don't bother. At 7am we were at Police Port Control to check in, and then with the Harbourmaster to pay the Navigation Tax. They want to be paid in cash so Dean went to the cashpoint and withdrew the 826 Croatian Kuna required. It's about £110. But they don't have any change and the local shop's shut, so we had to buy an ice-cream at the cafe to change a 200 kuna note.
Thesee's arrival into Croatia,
at Ubli, Lastovo island
With all the formalities done, we left the Customs Quay. It was getting busy with boats just arriving to check in, and check out for that matter too. We motored around a couple of local anchorages and then headed 3 miles east to what has turned out to be a fabulous cove called Skrivena Luka. We are in a Nature Park so there's a charge 400 Kuna for 3 nights... about £17 a night. We need a few days to start feeling human again. Two nights without proper sleep takes its toll. But we're so very pleased we have finally made it to CROATIA.
Unusual rocks
Skrivena Luka anchorage
We can hear the sounds of crickets
and birdsong
The new money will take some getting used to
Looks a lot, but only £150
Sunday 20th June... Linda - Proper sleep at last felt so good. It was a beautiful morning, the water crystal clear and we could see the anchor sitting nicely in the mud and weedy patches. It was so calm we took the dinghy for a run around the cove, Dean rowing at a leisurely pace. We stopped for a quick stroll ashore. It was a lovely setting around the Porto Rosso marina pontoon and restaurant.
This is the light we followed here the other night
During the dinghy tour
Nice waterside homes
Extra big chair for big bums
Special chimneys here in Croatia
Tea pots?
Walking ashore
Yesterday we got chatting to the catamaran people anchored nearby to us. They came over for a coffee this morning and brought their doggie along too. She was gorgeous and was quite happy to get comfy in the skipper's seat.
Making herself at home
At midday we raised the anchor and moved around to the north of Lastovo (not with the dog of course). We're now backed into a restaurant quay. It's free if you eat in their restaurant. Never done this before.
Father's day dinner at Konoba Aragosta
Other quayside restaurants
Our view out to sea from the quay
Dean - But of course it's not all fun. The log (speedo) has been playing up, so out with tools again and try to find the problem.
Empty the locker and climb inside
Linda misses her chance of freedom!
Inside upside down
Once I had wasted an hour or so looking for the problem we went for a walk along the quay high road. You can just see the top of Thesee's mast.
Mast height
There he is
Nice flowers
Nice boat!
Fishing gear
Rocky foot path
Monday 21st June... Linda - Summer Solstice 2021. We must remember to look at the stars tonight. The skies are so clear but we keep forgetting to look!
But first a few photos from last night's meal. We both chose the lamb and ordered it early as it takes 3 hours to cook apparantly in this gadget. It's been so long since we could get lamb in a restaurant, we were both eagerly looking forward to it so much. It was extraordinary to see it being cooked. They put the hot ashes on top too.
We had a good night, though a little disappointed with the meal. It was fine but a bit pricey. Still, we tried to remember the last time we went out for a meal in a restaurant that wasn't pizza. Neither of us could remember, it's been sooooooooo long.
Excitement mounting at what was inside
We tried the Croatian wine....
....yes, it tasted good
Our lamb and veg concoction
Dean's having too much fun
Not far to walk home
Talking to Pete on the phone
On to today then. We seem to be waking up early around 6.30 ish. The main town on the island is 3km walk away so off we went on foot about 8am. A bit of shopping and sightseeing to do before departure.
Arrival in town
Quite stunning views
More directional signs
We've read that your 'financial status' in Lastovo
is rated on the size and ornateness of your chimney
Here's another
A bit of sightseeing before shopping
Really quite unique little churches
... a bit of a witches cauldron thing going on to
Another chimney
Looking down to Lastovo port
Streets near the castle
We didn't go all the way up
After shopping we took a countryside footpath for part of the way,
it was lovely
Well yes we think it was, because as we moved to our next anchorage just 3 miles away, the speedo was registering 6- 8 knots, instead of the 3 knots we've been getting lately. The weedy patch must have been deflecting the flow of water over the speedo.
This afternoon we anchored in our new spot at Mali Lago, Pasadur. Still on Lastovo. It's near to where we checked in the other day. Wow, another fantastic anchorage. We are so impressed with what we've seen so far. And it's so lovely to be able to travel just a few miles instead of the usual 30 - 40 miles a day. Dean having sorted the speedo was in no mood for relaxing. His next job was trying to clear the heads outlet pipes. Lovely. They are underperfoming, and you know Dean, everything has to be in proper working order.
With a bit of time on our hands this afternoon, I remembered we have a useful book to refer to for anchorages etc. It's called the 777 Harbours and Anchorages Pilot Book, Eastern Adriatic. I looked up the cove that we were in. I was a bit puzzled as it referred to it as FKK, so I looked on the internet for help. Well, turns out basically it means it's nudist friendly. FKK is a German abbreviation for Frei Korper Kultur..... in English it means free body culture. Haven't seen any yet though 😅
Peeking
Flushing
Poking
Lastovo has been mindblowing. Tomorrow, a new island.... Korcula.
Tuesday 22nd June... Linda - Time to give the outboard engine a run, and here was the perfect place. We have only used it once in the four weeks since we left Licata. Good job we tested because it kept losing speed. There's loads of places to land the dinghy here. We headed into a beautiful inlet and to the shore. Here in Croatia the shoreline shelves steeply and I was almost on dry land before I could step out of the dingy, and even then it was up to my knees. Dean took the top off the outboard, drained the carburettor and changed the sparkplug. This is truly the definition of 'Boat maintenance in exotic places'. It was better on the way back but still not as it should be.
Note: Dean fitted a small light on top
of the outboard for use at night
We went under in the dinghy
Lovely hotel and restaurant
Pasadur quayside
In one of the bays, a submarine pen
Dean's boat maintenance in exotic places
...really
Super clear water
Nearly done
Nice colourful view and chimey
It was after lunch when we departed for our new destination... Vela Luka on Korcula Island. The word they use here for 'island' is Otok... So Otok Korcula. Wind forecast 9 knots, reality 19 knots... it's crazy. Going downwind it was ok and a little rolly, but only 10 miles to Korcula and then round the west corner and into Vela Luka.
One of the reasons for coming here was to get fuel (still have 3/4 full but good to get when available), then pick up a buoy for the night. The fuel pontoon is much easier to get on to here rather than in Lastovo. That wasn't the case today though. There was a whacking wooden gillet (on the fuel berth for the night) with a bowsprit the size of the Eiffel Tower.... plus the wind was blowing us off, so we couldn't even ferry glide into the quay. We did eventually manage to land with some difficulty as there was no fuel attendant and I had to throw our lines to a passer by. After all that we were told that the fuel lines wouldn't reach. What a joke! If we wanted fuel we would have to turn around. No chance, goodbye! We'll have another look tomorrow.
So we picked up a buoy in a sheltered spot called Uvala Plitvine. 200 kuna for the night, but it's a nice location. Still got to look at the stars tonight.
Megayacht anchorage in Vela Luka
This is some sort of offshore vessel
with a yellow helicopter hiding
View from the fuel berth
Old landing craft near our buoy
Last inter-island ferry of the day
Wednesday 23rd June... Linda - The morning was beautifully serene, and I noticed what a lovely place this is. It was only our Plan B destination yesterday too. No rush to get going so we took the dinghy ashore and went on a 'Saffy Legacy Walk' over the hill to the harbour and back along the seafront. It was wonderful. Once again I can't stop taking photographs...
Morning view of the cove
Looking out to sea
Dinghy landing
Big old disgarded ropes here
Guess who?
It seems this town has catered for everyone. Sailors, Sunbathers, Walkers, Swimmers, Water Polo.... There's a marina if you want it, plenty of buoys to tie up to in the town too. The walk back along the waterside path was gorgeous.
Underground spring
and safe children's paddle areas
Water polo pitch
The quaintest little chapel I've ever seen
on the water's edge
With mosiacs in front of it
Lots of shade and sunbathing areas to choose from
Fancy a dip in that water?
We found a 'Kissing Spot' sign
I guess you watch the sunset from here
Would be rude not to.... 💕
When we got back after all this kissing nonsense, Dean had another look at the outboard engine, cleaning the air filter and carburettor. It seems to be a lot better, but he says the dinghy goes faster without me in it. Charming! After all that kissing too....
We left the buoy and went back to the fuel berth, happily with more success today than yesterday. Then off just 3 miles round the coast to check out another cove called Uvala Gradina. You could easy call it a blue water bay, so good in fact that I WENT FOR A SWIM. Now it must be good. Whilst I was playing about Dean did some hull scrubbing.
My swimsuit to prove I went in
Oh blue blue water
There was even a tiny island with accomodation
Big houses too, with big chimneys!
It's allowed (we think) to have two hours for free on the buoys, before having to pay. So when our time was up we moved to another anchorage a couple of miles away. This one called Uvala Bili Bok, on the small island of Proizd. We've worked out Uvala means Cove. Here there was a very large three masted ship tied to the shore. It was just leaving and so we went in to find a spot. It's only small and here you have to drop the anchor, reverse towards the shore and then take a line ashore and tie it to something like a rock or a tree. It's quite a palava. We have only ever done this once before way back in Majorca, so we were a bit apprehensive. It did take quite a bit of faffing around but we got there in the end. We need to practise this as it's quite common to anchor this way in Croatia.
The big ship just leaving
Thursday 24th June... Linda - Island number 4 today, Otok Scredo. These place names are so hard to remember, and say for that matter. We moved on early, last night's anchorage was in the wild so nothing to see really, but it was calm and safe which is the most important thing. By 10.15am we had travelled 7 miles north to the new anchorage Uvala Tufera on the small island of Otok Scredo, another wild anchorage.
Last night's line ashore
Tucked into today's anchorage Uvala Tufera
The island of Hvar in the background
Now looking down the other way
Fabulous swimming water again
... and a view towards the small beach
We didn't waste any time getting ashore for a walk, but unfortunately after we had landed, locked up the dinghy, and got our trainers on we found that the small pathway only went about 50 yards then disappeared into the wilderness. Disappointed! Although we did see an old derelict caravan which looked like it had been there since about 1970, and also a shedded snake skin about 12 inches long. Maybe it's a good job we couldn't get any further.
View of the anchorage from the beach
The snake skin to the right of the white rock
A few boats came and went throughout the day but only one overnighter left with us now. This afternoon we took the dinghy into the next bay to see if we could get ashore there, but it was useless. Too many rocks and no pathways. So we headed back, but one thing was a success, the outboard engine worked just fine after yesterday's TLC. Oh yes, and there are loads of wasps around so quite annoying. We have tied to shore again tonight, it was a lot easier process than yesterday's so we must be getting the hang of it.
The next blog post will be called 'Hvar to the Dalmatian coast'
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